I have a 360/6, which I love. But a problem I have with it is that the bridge height adjustment screws tend to slip from the vibrations, and let the bridge lower slightly.
It doesn't really affect my action much, but what will happen is the front (or rear) screw on one side will slip a little, and the bridge will vibrate, which is kind of annoying.
Any fixes for this besides hitting them with a dab of clear nail polish to set the threads a bit?
-Nick
Bridge height screws slipping...any suggestions?
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jingle_jangle
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Red Loc-Tite. Apply a tiny drop to each screw after you've got it adjusted to your ideal height. You can use a toothpick or straight pin to place one drop precisely. It breaks free easily with an Allen wrench if you need to re-adjust.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
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fiveightandten
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jingle_jangle
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Newer Ricks' height adjustment screws are chrome-plated and the stuff flakes off pretty easily. Older guitars or ones which have had the screws replaced with the hardware-store variety, will not be plated (usually they are black oxide or could even be rusted if the guitar is neglected enough).
In either case, removing the screw from the bridge and soaking it in acetone (nail polish remover) will soften the Loc-Tite so that it can be picked out of the threads.
In either case, removing the screw from the bridge and soaking it in acetone (nail polish remover) will soften the Loc-Tite so that it can be picked out of the threads.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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jingle_jangle
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Don't get Loc-Tite or the nail polish remover on the guitar's finish--both will mar the paint or varnish and require repair!
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
I would first try stretching the springs a little for more tension. Red Loctite is permanent and some are high temp #271, 272, 277. Use #242 removeable (blue)or #290 wicking (green). There are some for even lighter duty that would suffice. I don't have my catalog at hand right now. If you use one that is too strong you may tear up threads if you move it after curing unless you apply heat. The red ones generlly need more heat, not a good thing in this application. There are dozens of different types these are just a few.
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jingle_jangle
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Ken:
I beg to differ on this. On comparatively larger fasteners with a lot of bearing surface (1/4-20, say, and up), red can present a challenge. But on the small screws used on the Rick bridge, red works best for me. I've used both blue and green on small fasteners, and there's not enough bearing surface for them to work. I've never had to use heat on red with small screws.
Smaller screws (say, jewelers' sizes from 2-56 on down) should not need any type of Loctite at all, incidentally. A dab of nail polish where they meet their bearing surfaces will do it. In this case, Loctite will destroy the screw.
Heat? Yeah, if you're rebuilding an engine and can't get them off because some doofus put too much on!
I beg to differ on this. On comparatively larger fasteners with a lot of bearing surface (1/4-20, say, and up), red can present a challenge. But on the small screws used on the Rick bridge, red works best for me. I've used both blue and green on small fasteners, and there's not enough bearing surface for them to work. I've never had to use heat on red with small screws.
Smaller screws (say, jewelers' sizes from 2-56 on down) should not need any type of Loctite at all, incidentally. A dab of nail polish where they meet their bearing surfaces will do it. In this case, Loctite will destroy the screw.
Heat? Yeah, if you're rebuilding an engine and can't get them off because some doofus put too much on!
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
From the Loctite web site, notice the fastener diameters and removal recommendations :
Threadlockers
Loctite® Threadlocker Red
OEM specified as 271
High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
Strengthens slip and light press fits
Removable with heat and hand tools
Threadlockers
Loctite® Threadlocker Green
OEM specified as 290
Penetrating formula works in between pre-assembled parts
Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2mm to 12mm)
Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius
Threadlockers
Loctite® Threadlocker Red
OEM specified as 271
High temperature, high strength for heavy duty applications
Designed for larger fasteners 3/8" to 1" (9.5mm to 25mm)
Locks studs, bushings and large fasteners against vibration loosening
Strengthens slip and light press fits
Removable with heat and hand tools
Threadlockers
Loctite® Threadlocker Green
OEM specified as 290
Penetrating formula works in between pre-assembled parts
Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for fasteners ranging from #2 to 1/2" (2.2mm to 12mm)
Localized heating and hand tools are needed for disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius
"The best things in life aren't things."
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jingle_jangle
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Hmmm....
Thanks, Ken!
Personal experience (mine) vs. spec sheets.
OK, Nick, your call. Sorry to confuse you. I'd say try the green (spec sheet) and then if that doesn't suit you, go with the red (my experience).
Thanks, Ken!
Personal experience (mine) vs. spec sheets.
OK, Nick, your call. Sorry to confuse you. I'd say try the green (spec sheet) and then if that doesn't suit you, go with the red (my experience).
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
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fiveightandten
Thanks for the replies gentleman...
There's no confusion...it's always good to hear opinions from multiple people.
I didn't see this thread until now, or I would've looked into the green. But I took a trip down to the hardware store a while back and went with the blue. They did have red...but I figured the blue would hold fine, and be easier to remove at a later date.
It took forever to dry completely, but...problem solved. It hasn't shifted one bit. We'll see how much trouble I have the next time I need to adjust the action.
But I adjusted the truss rods, and re-set the action right before I locked it into place...so i'm guessing I won't need to touch it for quite a while.
Thanks again for the help guys. This was a big annoyance for me, and it drove me to use my Gibson quite a bit more than the Ric. But the 360 is back in business.
-Nick
There's no confusion...it's always good to hear opinions from multiple people.
I didn't see this thread until now, or I would've looked into the green. But I took a trip down to the hardware store a while back and went with the blue. They did have red...but I figured the blue would hold fine, and be easier to remove at a later date.
It took forever to dry completely, but...problem solved. It hasn't shifted one bit. We'll see how much trouble I have the next time I need to adjust the action.
But I adjusted the truss rods, and re-set the action right before I locked it into place...so i'm guessing I won't need to touch it for quite a while.
Thanks again for the help guys. This was a big annoyance for me, and it drove me to use my Gibson quite a bit more than the Ric. But the 360 is back in business.
-Nick
Actually it will only cure where the threads contact each other. Any amount that you can see will not. This stuff is anaerobic. It cures in the absense of air. That is why the bottle is half full and the plastic breathes. If you want to speed the cure use Loctite primer.
"The best things in life aren't things."
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fiveightandten
Ahhh...I see. I was going by the small amounts of product that were on the bridge, not the the threads.
I wiped virtually all the excess off, but what little was there only dried after I left the guitar in the case for a while. I guess that explains it...as it didn't dry when I left it on the guitar hanger in my apartment overnight
Either way, it's locked up well enough to keep it from slipping. Mission accomplished. The guitar plays wonderfully, and I don't have to worry about the action moving down on me and the bridge vibrating.
Thanks again.
-Nick
I wiped virtually all the excess off, but what little was there only dried after I left the guitar in the case for a while. I guess that explains it...as it didn't dry when I left it on the guitar hanger in my apartment overnight
Either way, it's locked up well enough to keep it from slipping. Mission accomplished. The guitar plays wonderfully, and I don't have to worry about the action moving down on me and the bridge vibrating.
Thanks again.
-Nick