Differences between new vs. vintage truss rods?

[markthemd]

The original rods were used from day one until 1984 (at least to the best of my knowledge)
At that point a new 'improved' truss rod system was introduced .

Both eras use the dual/Two rod system .This is true except for the 1950's and perhaps the very early 1960's .I don't have a cutoff date of when the single rod necks ended as a standard product item ,but this was very early on .

The Vintage twin rod system was a one piece mild steel rod that had 10/32 threads on one end and was folded in half.
A pair of these rods were slid into a channel in the necks of ALL Rickenbackers.
The adjustment area had a bar made of aluminum that held the rods and a pair of steel 1/4" hex nuts were used to keep tension on these rods.

These rods are NOT anchored in any of the instruments that they are in .You need to remove them to sometimes adjust a troublesome neck ,or to fix stripped threads or to re wax them and retap them to eliminate rattle .

The new rods are cold rolled steel ....an industry standard that all guitar companies have used for years (except the CF Martin company,and they too now use a variation on this truss rod)...at least since the Gibson patent ran out.

The new rods do not need to be removed for any reason of adjustment at all .These rods respond just like a rod in any Fender or Gibson type instrument.

The old rod system was designed around a time when string standards were far different than they are today ,in 2001.
The old flatwound strings were of less tension and round wound strings were virtually unheard of .

This old /vintage style rod system was different than Fender or Gibson and far better than the CF Martin 'T' bar non adjustable rod.It was a style that was an inhouse product.No other company was using it .
Although I have heard rumors that the 'Harmony' guitar company (the USA made variety ) used a type of this rod ....but I have NEVER seen one in that brand of guitar.

Alembic uses a variation on that rod as does Warmoth ..but both of those rods are made with cold rolled steel and do not slide in or out .They are an anchored system.

[heavyduty]

Mark -

Can you give an overview of how the old style rods slip in and out of the neck? What tools are needed?

[markthemd]

I use a 1/4" Spintite #3208 .This is made by Stevens Walden Inc. of Worchester ,Mass.USA

This 1/4 " tool is about one foot long and is THE tool to remove /adjust /tweek all Rickenbacker truss rods .It also get used for Guild ,and some Gibson guitars.

To remove the V.style rods ,you remove the two nuts .IO then place a block of material (anything works ,but I have my Rick-O-kit and this is a block of 1/4" thick phenolic block that has been my pry plate for 20 plus years ...it hangs with my Rick -O - wrench)

I place the block against the nut ,to keep from damaging it ,and using a flat blade screw driver ,I pry the aluminum black away from the end of the cavity .

Once the block is off (and this is a tedious job sometimes ) I re-install the nuts on the rods.

Using needle nose pliers,I use the phenolic block against the nut and wedge away from the nut the rods.I do one at a time .When you get close to the edge of the trussrods cavity ,I use a feeler gauge to let the rod slide up and out of the cavity .More often than not ,you need to remove the nut once you get half way towards the end of the rod cavity.

Once the rod is over the edge of the cavity ....It just pulls out.

To slide it back in ...I use the Spintite on the rod with out the nut ...just push it back in!.


The trick to the rods is knowing what to do to arch them (if needed) and how much.

This is a trial and error process.

This antiquated system can be made to function ,but it is not as user friendly as the 'New' version .

[heavyduty]

Thanks, Mark. This is why I'm looking for a Chicago area Ric luthier - just in case I ever need things like this done!