"Clincking" during string pulling

[jdma]

This question has to do with a 360v64. When I pull the B and G strings, I often get a "clincking" sound, which then results in the string(s) being out of tune. I've got most of the string wrapped around the tuner, and the ball end of the string is tight in the tailpiece. I've taken a screwdriver and tried to wiggle the saddles for those 2 strings, and still occasionally get the same sound. This doesn't happen on my 330. (I'm thinking to swap the bridges between the 2 to see if it's bridge related.) Any ideas? Thanks! John

[markthemd]

Sounds like one of your saddles wobbles sideways

This is really common on the old guitars -pre 1984 .

Pull the string off the saddle and try and rock it side to side ...it should not .If it does that is the culprit .

To fix it you need a hammer and a metal surface ...like a vice .

Check it first ,and reply .Then I'll explain further if need be .

[jdma]

Thanks for the idea, Mark. Here's what I did. I slid the B string off the saddle, and put a narrow blade screwdriver in the slot, and tried to rock it sideways. Didn't see any motion. Did the same with the G string. With the bridge cover off, and the strings in their saddle slots, I then began to really pull the strings. The saddles "squeaked/creaked". When I did this to the B string, the G string clinked on the 1st couple of pulls, and then its saddle squeaked, with no more clinking. This was reproducible...B squeak => G clink then squeak. None of the other strings/saddles did this. By the way, the registration card says this guitar was made 5/00, and this issue was present with the factory strings and now with the Pyramid Golds. I'd hate to have to send the whole guitar back for a warranty service call. Maybe I should try your fix. Thanks! John

[markthemd]

When we assemble the early 1970's bridges ,we had this problem on the line.

The tooling was in bad shape (check out the screw heads for intonation ...they are rarely in a straight/level line .
Because of this all the saddles rocked side ways .
Plus the tooling for making those was also in poor shape ....we spent lots of time picking and choosing saddles that worked.
To 'tighten' the wobble ,we inserted a screw into the saddle and then with a ball pean hammer ,set the saddle on top of a vice and tapped the edge/corner of the bottom of the saddle.This in fact curled the corner slightly .
Upon installing the saddle if it now did not wobble ...it stayed .If it was better ,but still wobbled ...it was removed and the other corner was tapped to curl it .Then re-installed .That usually fixed it.

You don't have to smash the corner ...just tap it .The steel hammer is way harder than the aluminum,and the aluminum will give .By leaving the screw in the saddle ,you keep the threads 'clean'.

You can use other things besides a vice ....but it sure worked then and still does to this day .I also used this technique at American Precision Metal Works when I worked for Gary Kahler in 1980.We made all the brass Tun-O -Matics for Mighty Mite and Schecter Guitar Research.They had a similar saddle arrangement.

[jdma]

Interesting process...I'll give it a try in the near future. Thanks! John

[jdma]

Well, before taking the bridge apart, I swapped the bridges of the 360v64 (with the problem) and the 330. Now both are working fine. I've got no idea why, but I'm not complaining! John

[markthemd]

could it be that indeed one of the saddles was loose and that string pull/tension is different as the bridge may not be aligned exactly the same ,there by 'fixing' the problem?


I would still ....'fix' the problem ...this is like "Hey Doctor ,I seem to have a problem with my leg!"

"Well Sir ,it looks as though you have a slight crack in your tibia!" The Doctor exclaimed

"No problem with me Doc...I'll just favor the other leg for awhile!"


I'd find it ,fix it then you won't ever have to worry about it ...it's still there......lurking!

[jdma]

Well, that makes more sense than it somehow magically disappearing between guitars. I'll take your advice. Thanks! John