2003 Rick 360/6 Blue,saddle cover buzz. 360/6?
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2003 Rick 360/6 Blue,saddle cover buzz. 360/6?
I nave a 2003 Rickenbacker 360/6 and the saddle cover buzzes. I tightened the philips head screws and that seem to stop some of it. I think some of the other 100 parts are buzzing some too. Anybody else having these problems?
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bluespckr
I'm new to Rics, too, Frank, but I've been playing guitar almost 40 years. I think the bridge in general (by its design, perhaps) is kind of prone to that. I think I read somewhere there's a general loosening which is not a problem, really. Just part of the sound. Funny thing, I bought a set of Pyramid Gold flatwounds after reading so much about them. Supposedly they are a pretty good marriage, tonewise, for Ric guitars -- mine is a 360/6 also. I haven't played them enough to come to a conclusion, but I immediately noticed that some of that rattle buzzy thing -- in fact almost all of it -- stopped with the new strings. They're a bit pricey but the trade off is in long life. I've used nothing but round-wounds for all my 40 years or so of playing, so playing a flat-wound set is quite a change for me, but I think I'm going to like it. It did seem to quiet that loosening effect, as well. BTW, I like the look of that cover, but took mine off so I could hand dampen certain strings when I'm playing. They look great with the cover, but they aren't so bad without them, and it's easier for me to play in a style I'm more used to. I've always rested my hand just behind the bridge. Good luck and let me know how you make out ... and welcome to the Ric forum brotherhood. Someone with a lot more Ric time and experience than me will chime in and settle this mystery, I'm sure.
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bill_yantz
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Frank; make sure the bridge screws are seated securely. There are two screw on each end of the bridge. To raise and lower the bridge, each set of screws are used for each side. With that in mind its possible that one of the screws is loose. Tighten slightly to find the loose one. If you find one with some play in it, that might be the culprit. Please try that and respond back as to the results. If you think it’s still the cover, take it off and then try. The idea is to isolate it as best you can. I would do a general tightening of all screws. Not to over tighten but more to find one that is loose. Make sure your strings are seated in the tailpiece properly.
BTW, I am glad to hear you made a smooth transition to flats. Usually it's quite hard. It took me a while to comfortably go from 9s to 10s and then to 11 flats, 12s and then to 13s. A really big help for me is that I tune down 1/2 step to make vocals easier. Heavy strings work well in that application as they minimize buzzing you will get from detuning light gauge string. Heavier gauge Pyramids and Tomastiks are excellent for a fatter, thicker sound and have additional benefit of being low tension, which is helpful for bending. I have always used 11s of either of those brands on my 6-string Rics, and they work nicely with scatterwound toasters. I have Pyramid flats on my CW 12-string and I really like them but I am going to try a set of Ric 12-string set. Is think the combination of the Ric compressed wound strings and the toasters are great but I need a heavier string and more of a "thud" sound on the six strings, if that makes sense. I like to experiment with strings, its fun to try and expand your sound and knowledge at the same time. BTW, if you do change strings from a flatwound Pyramid to something else, don't throw them away. They are re-useable. Maybe that's another thread. I only throw away when one breaks. I regularly clean and re-install when I want to try a set on a particular guitar. Like you said, these sets are not cheap. I clean them with an old T-shirt and naphtha. Try this: put naphtha in a jar with cover; windup each string and put them in the jar. Leave them in there for awhile, swish it around to get the string totally covered to dislodge dirt; take out; wipe with old T-shirt, put the strings on. You won't believe how new they will sound. I have done this to both flats and wounds. In the early 60s, when strings were scarce, especially in England, they use to boil them to get them clean and reuse.
BTW, I am glad to hear you made a smooth transition to flats. Usually it's quite hard. It took me a while to comfortably go from 9s to 10s and then to 11 flats, 12s and then to 13s. A really big help for me is that I tune down 1/2 step to make vocals easier. Heavy strings work well in that application as they minimize buzzing you will get from detuning light gauge string. Heavier gauge Pyramids and Tomastiks are excellent for a fatter, thicker sound and have additional benefit of being low tension, which is helpful for bending. I have always used 11s of either of those brands on my 6-string Rics, and they work nicely with scatterwound toasters. I have Pyramid flats on my CW 12-string and I really like them but I am going to try a set of Ric 12-string set. Is think the combination of the Ric compressed wound strings and the toasters are great but I need a heavier string and more of a "thud" sound on the six strings, if that makes sense. I like to experiment with strings, its fun to try and expand your sound and knowledge at the same time. BTW, if you do change strings from a flatwound Pyramid to something else, don't throw them away. They are re-useable. Maybe that's another thread. I only throw away when one breaks. I regularly clean and re-install when I want to try a set on a particular guitar. Like you said, these sets are not cheap. I clean them with an old T-shirt and naphtha. Try this: put naphtha in a jar with cover; windup each string and put them in the jar. Leave them in there for awhile, swish it around to get the string totally covered to dislodge dirt; take out; wipe with old T-shirt, put the strings on. You won't believe how new they will sound. I have done this to both flats and wounds. In the early 60s, when strings were scarce, especially in England, they use to boil them to get them clean and reuse.
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adam_swapp
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How could 3 of them be loose? That would seem to imply that the entire bridge was cantilevered or supported by a single screw. I don't understand...
There are a number of things on the bridge that can rattle. If it's the saddles, you can possibly mitigate the problem by tightening up the threads and/or putting springs on the saddle adjustment screws (if they're not already there). I suppose you could even use a little Loctite if you knew your intonation was set and you weren't going to be changing string gauges in the near future.
There are a number of things on the bridge that can rattle. If it's the saddles, you can possibly mitigate the problem by tightening up the threads and/or putting springs on the saddle adjustment screws (if they're not already there). I suppose you could even use a little Loctite if you knew your intonation was set and you weren't going to be changing string gauges in the near future.

You want to put that where?
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