High Gain "Dot" Removal/Truss Rod Bending

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 2:40 pm

First, what is the best method for removing the "dots" from Ricky high gains? Second, when the truss rod is removed, I believe the upper portion of the rod is supposed to be straight and the lower gently curved downward till the ends are about three inches apart. Is this correct?

rickcrazy · Post by **rickcrazy** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 4:00 pm

You mean removing the actual polepieces from a high-gain pickup? I assume we're talking about '90s/current high-gains here. If they're pre-1990, do not attempt to remove the polepieces on them.

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Thu Feb 17, 2005 6:39 pm

Yes, we are talking about a current set of guitar high gains. So tell us, oh Sergio, keeper of all knowledge related to Rickenbacker pickup modification, what is the secret..how IS it done? And if ya know anything about the truss rod question, that would be helpful too.

rickcrazy · Post by **rickcrazy** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 12:44 am

Well, you're in for a bit of hard work, but it can be done. I do it this way: I remove the magnet - taking care not to unsolder the negative output lead - and with the pickup still in its cover, I tap on the bottom of each individual polepiece with a hammer and a small screw driver (I admit it's a tricky procedure...) so as to drive them out of the bobbin.
As for your truss rod question, I assume you're referring to pre-1984 truss rods. I've removed (and re-inserted, of course) many such truss rods (I'm talking 4001/pre-1984 4003 basses here), and I really don't think the ends of both their upper and lower portions are supposed to be that far apart when the rods are removed.

rickinroma · Post by **rickinroma** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 1:01 am

Sergio, is there any reason why customers should remove the pick up dots? I mean will be any sound improvement (or maybe the opposite)? Or is it just because the pick up will be more similar to the toaster, since it has the two black bars?
thanks

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 3:44 am

I'm not Sérgio but I don't think they would work very well with no pole pieces, it transfers the magnetic properties to the surface near the strings from the bar magnet underneath. I would assume he maybe wants to adjust them? I've also removed many pre-1984 truss rods and the end that butts against the other side of the aluminum bar should be about 1 inch (2,54mm) shorter than the threaded end. They will not work unless the other end does butt against the aluminum bar.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 3:46 am

Oh, the curved part is supposed to be on top, that's the shorter part that butts against the aluminum bar.

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 3:52 am

Dane I'm sorry I don't really understand your question, that's why I didn't answer it in the first place. I put a slight upwards curve in the middle of the upper truss rod which is the shorter end. Nothing drastic, and actually I'm not even sure why this is done, because there is not really much place for it to go once it's in there. But it's been recommended so I do it.

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 8:32 am

The reason I'm removing the dots is to convert the pickup to the toaster appearence. I know this can be done without effecting the sound because the guy I got them from has sold them that way. By the time I e-mailed him to do it to mine, he had already shipped them so now I want to do it my self. I know Mr.Rath has done this to 4-pole high gains as part of the conversion to 5-pole pickups. Hey Jeff, if ya do mine you can keep all 12 dots!

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:53 am

the mushroom shaped iron slugs usually come out fairly easily ... sometimes on old pickups they get stuck ... I use vice grips and lock them on and pull and twist and they usually come up and out ... if you remove the iron slugs then you have to replace them with another iron slug or an alnico magnet ... or else no sound ... and yes I can do it for you ...

rictified · Post by **rictified** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:17 am

Why not just cut off the buttons and re-insert the pole pieces just a bit below the top, then put on your toaster top. I knew without pole pieces you would get nothing.

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:46 am

That's an idea ... pull them out half way cut the top off with a dremmel and push it back down in ... it might work ...

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:48 am

According to the guy who does these toaster conversions, he just puts a dab of silicone in the holes where the slug came out to keep out moisture and that the sound of the pickup is the same even without the slugs. E-mail me Jeff with your address and I'll send the pickups to you with return postage. You can keep the old chrome covers too.

bill_yantz · Post by **bill_yantz** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 3:38 am

Dave, did you get this done? I am very interested to see/hear the results. If it is completed would you post a detailed review. Also, how much are the replacement covers and where did you get yours?

I have a 330 arriving on Monday. I don't like the look of the buttons on the higain. I am going to give them a try for sound. If I like it, then I would like to convert it to a toaster look. It would be excellent if whoever does this, would take picture of the process.

Please let us know as soon as you have it completed.

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Thu Feb 24, 2005 6:52 am

Hey Bill...Dave's not here...I've got a pair of toaster covers on the way to me from Mike Parks. When they get here, I'm shipping them and the pickups off to Jeff Rath for a "dot-ectemy". I got the idea from the guy I got the pickups from who does this for customers and claims that the sound is unchanged. It will be awhile before this project is done to post a review but if Jeff wants to pop one into a bass to check it out, that's fine with me.