Ric 330/6 Neck/Truss Rod Question

mainstreetexile · Post by **mainstreetexile** » Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:12 am

I have a 2003 Ric 330/6 that I bought new. This winter it seems like the neck keeps slipping (concave) so the action goes up. I had a show last Saturday and adjusted it right before that, turned each truss rod about a quarter turn and it solved the problem. Now, a week later, the action has definitely increased again. Should I be concerned? Can I max out the truss rod by continuing to adjust it? Except for the show, the guitar has been in a stable, temperature controlled environment. I also have a '99 Ric 330/12 that I bought last August. I had that set up right away and the action hasn't changed one bit in the time I've owned it.

frankabq · Post by **frankabq** » Sat Feb 19, 2005 3:15 pm

Sounds a bit odd. I have a 360/6 with 9s on it and had to set it up myself but it has stayed the same for a year now. Do you keep a humidifier in the case with the guitar? Make sure the humidity is not the problem first. I read somewhere that Luthiers tighten the truss rod so tight as to open up the fret board to replace the frets so I guess it's done. Keep turning them 1/4 turn at a time and checking the relief (curve) of the neck with a straight edge ruler until it's right. Some guitars start out at 2/64th of an inch at the nut and are set 4/64ths (1/16th of an inch)at the end of the neck(strings from frets) with a curve/bow/relief 9th to 12th fret with another 1/64ths of an inch. So long as you stay within these measurements you should be all right. Some players like the neck totally straight but most necks have a small amount of a bow to them. If you can't see the bow without using a straight edge from bridge to nut but see it when you use the straight edge, then you're in the right ball park. If you want to be really accurate get a feeler gauge and the specs for your guitar's setup from Rickenbacker. Good Luck.

mainstreetexile · Post by **mainstreetexile** » Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:10 pm

Thanks for the response -- our humidity has been all over the place (Michigan) so that may be the problem. I will get a case humidifier for the guitar and keep an eye on it.

frankabq · Post by **frankabq** » Tue Feb 22, 2005 7:29 pm

You'd be surprised how much of a difference humidity changes can make. Guitars can dry up and shrink the woods so bad that frets stick out past the fretboard and catch on your hand sliding up and down the neck. If it gets really bad frets can fall off and bridges and bracing come unglued and similar things can happen if the wood gets too moist and swells up. The flat back on a Ric can actually create a bow outward and bindings seperate. It takes an extreme change over long periods to do this but it can happen. Just be aware and take care of it and you shouldn't have any of these problems. try and store it in at least a 35 to 55% humidified case. If it is ever exposed to an extreme slowly introduce back into a controled environment ie freezing car trunk over night, leave it in the case inside your warm home half a day or so then unlatch it for a couple of hours, then remove it from the case. If you ever open the case and the finish develops a fog on it close it instantly and let the whole case warm up slowly. Good Luck.