Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

John, yours is an example of what not to do. The grain is running in the opposite direction. I would be concerned that with expansion/contraction due to humidity that you could end up splitting something apart. Of course it depends on the fit of the wood.

ken_j wrote:John, yours is an example of what not to do. The grain is running in the opposite direction. I would be concerned that with expansion/contraction due to humidity that you could end up splitting something apart. Of course it depends on the fit of the wood.

Ken, it is not a problem anymore. In the fuzzy picture, you can see the beginning scars from my wood chisel. I removed all plugs and have a RIC tailpiece fitted now. The wood was not a perfect fit by whoever did this, and that probably saved the bass, as I think the work was done decades ago. Whoever did the work, took a thick piece of white plexi and milled out a recess for the BadAss II. So glad they didn't rout the maple of the body!

Thanks! Everybody.

I really get the idea that this job is better suited for a luthier.

I am sooooo glad I asked you guys first, otherwise I might have made things worse!

Thanks again. I do have more questions that I will post individually. I know this is THE place for the best answers about Ricks!

It sounds like this bass could be a candidate for a nice 1/4" maple flamed or quilted veneer. It wouldn't be cheap bit it would hide the offending routes.

jwr2 wrote:It sounds like this bass could be a candidate for a nice 1/4" maple flamed or quilted veneer. It wouldn't be cheap bit it would hide the offending routes.

Ahh veneer! The saviour of many a mauled instrument!
emac.

Please explain about the veneer.

Since I have binding on the top, How would the veneer sit in relation to the binding?

How would the bridge sit on the veneer without causing the action to be too high?

Please, someone, relate your experience with this.

A layer is shaved off the top and the veneer is laid on it to match the original thickness of the body, then new binding is applied to the edge.

I should point out that I'd "veneer" (actually laminate, or "top off" the body) with 1/8" or 3/16" thick material, after removing the original binding and routing an identical amount from the top.

Using 1/4" thick wood to top off a body puts the glue seam at the same point as the bottom of the binding, which is a recipe for cracking along that seam in years to come. Tucking it under the binding means that it's protected and will hold up better in use.