Acoustic Guitar Question

[fireglo67]

Another acoustic guitar question.....

Is it ok to use the wonderful zymol (thanks Paul for recommending this product, it has changed my life!) on my glossy tobacca sunburst finish Takamine acoustic?

Cheers.

Rob

Zymol is great for anything with a high gloss finish. Good on chrome, plastic, and gold-plated hardware, too. On gold, don't rub too much--most gold parts are flash-plated and just the use of a cloth once too often will quickly wear away the plating! The gold on Ricks is much more durable than, say, Gretsches and Fenders, but you should still be careful.

Guitars with raw wood, or unfinished fretboards, or matte-finished guitars, do not accept Zymol well--you'll get a buildup in the wood cells on raw wood, and a spotty, patchy effect on matte varnish. Best thing for matte-finished guitars is Brillianize spray, which is made for acrylic plastics. It actually sheds fingerprints, and once used will clean easily with a soft, dry cloth. Do NOT use Brillianize for unfinished wood like fretboards; use Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil to feed and nourish ebony fretboards.

Brilliant.

Thanks again Paul.

[fireglo67]

Rob, she is a beaut!
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1053&sid=352#

Okay, I'll keep an eye open and let you know when it arrives. Thanks again.

Hey John, mine is a slightly different version of that guitar. It has a different finish, CoolTube pre amp, and better quality tuners.

Here is a stock photo, I'll photograph the real thing soon as this doesn't really do the guitar justice.

[johnallg]

Zymol is great for anything with a high gloss finish. Good on chrome, plastic, and gold-plated hardware, too. On gold, don't rub too much--most gold parts are flash-plated and just the use of a cloth once too often will quickly wear away the plating! The gold on Ricks is much more durable than, say, Gretsches and Fenders, but you should still be careful.

Paul, why isn't the gold plated parts covered with CV after flashing with the gold? All the chromed and plated parts for water faucets are now CV coated and hold up and last very well, even with using mild abrasives. Seems this would keep the plating and the shine for instruments much better than just the gold flashing.

[johnallg]

Rob, she is a beaut!
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1053&sid=352#

Okay, I'll keep an eye open and let you know when it arrives. Thanks again.

Hey John, mine is a slightly different version of that guitar. It has a different finish, CoolTube pre amp, and better quality tuners.

Here is a stock photo, I'll photograph the real thing soon as this doesn't really do the guitar justice.

Rob, I knew that was a similar model I linked as your SXF model was not listed anymore, nor the chance to show it in your brown burst. I read up on the tube preamp when looking for my daughter's guitar so I am aware of the quality you got there - very nice option, to say the least!

As to the poor man's Martin reference, that is for the lower models they make, like the G series. The TAN models are played by many a famous artist, with Bruce Springsteen coming to mind immediately.

[fireglo67]

Rob, she is a beaut!
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1053&sid=352#

Okay, I'll keep an eye open and let you know when it arrives. Thanks again.

Hey John, mine is a slightly different version of that guitar. It has a different finish, CoolTube pre amp, and better quality tuners.

Here is a stock photo, I'll photograph the real thing soon as this doesn't really do the guitar justice.

Rob, I knew that was a similar model I linked as your SXF model was not listed anymore, nor the chance to show it in your brown burst. I read up on the tube preamp when looking for my daughter's guitar so I am aware of the quality you got there - very nice option, to say the least!

As to the poor man's Martin reference, that is for the lower models they make, like the G series. The TAN models are played by many a famous artist, with Bruce Springsteen coming to mind immediately.

I think the SFX is a UK only model, though I could be wrong there.

Talking of the G series, for the money their value is unbeatable, I have played G series acoustics for years and they've never let me down, and the quality of all the Takamine pre-amps has always been very good at worst.

A very under-rated guitar.

[jingle_jangle]

Zymol is great for anything with a high gloss finish. Good on chrome, plastic, and gold-plated hardware, too. On gold, don't rub too much--most gold parts are flash-plated and just the use of a cloth once too often will quickly wear away the plating! The gold on Ricks is much more durable than, say, Gretsches and Fenders, but you should still be careful.

Paul, why isn't the gold plated parts covered with CV after flashing with the gold? All the chromed and plated parts for water faucets are now CV coated and hold up and last very well, even with using mild abrasives. Seems this would keep the plating and the shine for instruments much better than just the gold flashing.

Haven't bought a new faucet for a number of years, John, so this information is news and quite intriguing. I can't really see its use in the faucet arena (did I just say, "faucet arena"? Sheesh...), perhaps as a sealer/protectant for a plated part. Are these metal or platable ABS faucets we're talking about? I've tried googling CV and its use on plumbing parts, and come up with a lot of wood references (bathroom cabinets) but no hardware...

Anyway, if it is true, just note the differences in use of guitar parts and plumbing fixtures--the fixtures are in a hostile environment. Guitar parts are often rated as "interior" or "decorative" items, and plating is skimped upon.

Incidentally, my Rick 206 console steel double neck arrived yesterday. In assembnling it and cleaning it up a bit, I couldn't fail to notice that, despite its age (50 years!), the chrome plating on all parts was pristine, whereas the pickup height adjustment screws on the horseshoes, which were mild steel with no plating, were quite corroded. Top-notch quality as usual on the plating, with apparently a spec for "indefinite" service life!

Back to CV--I wouldn't use it on plated parts, for fear of chipping. Combine that with high humidity, and I'd worry about water absorption and milky blushing over time, too. But if they're doing it, I want to know the trick here.

[johnallg]

I am familiar with Moen's LifeShine process, though looking over their website was pretty useless (except now I want to replace the kitchen faucet). I have an email in to them hoping to find out what they use.

My bathroom faucet with the coating stands up to abrasives like Comet and light scrubbing, and I have not had any thining, dulling, nor chips in the 12 years it has been in use. Not bad.

I'll bet that dual lap looks awesome. I saw the auction just after it ended and knew you got a beauty and bargain. As to the quality of the chrome, remember back in the 60s the environmental laws were a lot looser and the process to do a good heavy chrome coat was really toxic. Can't do that now. But look how well it holds up.

I'll let you know if and what I get for an answer.

[jingle_jangle]

Yeah, John. I'm interested in following this one to its conclusion, so keep me in the loop.

Can't really call it a "lap"; it's got adjustable plated legs and a bracket in the lid to store them, and nice cast and machined leg brackets on the bottom that are 1/4" thick! It's definitely a console, but without the chrome or stainless edge trim like the 206 that John's Mom is holding in the Gallery on the RIC site. But the thing is built like a tank, with solid walnut sides and top, and exudes quality everywhere. It will get a reconditioning (just a clean-up!), as it's just patinaed enough to look neglected in person, but not enough to declare Authenticity of Mojo. Pictures soon.

My 102 is a "lap"; it's a '60 but has an old-style '57-'59 case (obviously these were back-stocked for a number of years). The 102 has a '60 serial number jackplate, but the 206 has the serial number stamped into the body wood on the bottom, and a plain-Jane jackplate. The 206 also has an early-style printed oilcloth case that's HEAVY! Near-mint in the case, too; just a bit of tarnish on the hardware.

An indicator of mercurial prices these days: This 206 cost me less than the 102 did a couple of years ago.

[johnallg]

Paul, I got a reply from Moen, and I have forwarded with comment to you at your conceptcar email address.

[jingle_jangle]

Thanks, John. Your response indicates that they use vapor-deposition plating, so the coating they're using is actually chrome, not clearcoat. I've had some guitar parts plated with this method and the results are very nice.

[johnallg]

Thanks, John. Your response indicates that they use vapor-deposition plating, so the coating they're using is actually chrome, not clearcoat. I've had some guitar parts plated with this method and the results are very nice.

Okay, thanks for clarifying. I didn't make much out of her response, other than it was metallic or ceramic. Very hearty chrome, I must say. Anyway, that is that.

[teb]

http://www.eclatcoating.com/products/decorative.php

If you do a search for physical vapor deposition you get all kinds of neat stuff.

[jingle_jangle]

It should be noted that vacuum deposition coating has been in existence as a process since high-amperage electricity has been in common usage.

For a long time it was used for light-duty decorative items, which is usually termed "vacuum metallizing". Still is, as a matter of fact. The "chrome plated" parts on those model car kits which some of us built in our yoot, were, in fact, vacuum-metallized and were coated with aluminum, not chrome.

Note, also that although PVD can be used on plating-grade ABS parts, due to the higher in-chamber temps that PVD uses, the ABS plastic must be first copper-electroplated and polished to stabilize the plastic and provide a polished surface to which the PVD coating can adhere.

[johnallg]

According to Wikipedia, physical vapor deposition has been around since 1838.

[Aside - listening to Joe Banamassa "Sloe Gin" - Dag!]

[jingle_jangle]

Well, yes, in a laboratory, experimental situation. But commercially, probably since the turn of the 20th century, roughly.

30 years ago, we used to use "vacuum-platers" to plate prototype plumbing fixtures which were sculpted from basswood, then heavily primed, finished to a high degree, and clearcoated for a perfectly-smooth surface. When finished, these were indistinguishable from the real thing! They were used for styling evaluation.

But this type of vacuum-plating would wear off with some handling. The stuff they are doing now with PVD (same principle as vac plating) is very tough, as you indicated.

I just finished replacing the Clearaudio Aurum cartridge in my main stereo with a new Sumiko Bluepoint, and am auditioning several of my reference albums. Blossom Dearie, Volume 6, and Discover America by Van Dyke Parks are spinning...lower output than the Clearaudio, but better separation, treble, and punchy bass. Or was the old cartridge merely wearing?