Acoustic Guitar Question

[bottom4]

It sounds somewhat intuitive, however I’d like to hear from the (an) expert. The term “neck reset”, what exactly is it and what work is involved?

[jingle_jangle]

Generally speaking, it means removing the neck of an acoustic guitar and re-installing it to restore proper playability to the instrument.

Almost always we're dealing with a neck that string tension has pulled upward, compromising the action on the upper frets.

Procedure for a glued-in neck is to remove the fret at the point where neck joins body (usually 12th or more commonly 14th), drill a tiny hole there, and insert a hollow needle through which steam is passed to soften the glue in the joint. A special clamping setup is used to force the neck heel and neck upward, using the body edge for leverage. As the glue softens, the neck will ease upward, out of the dovetail. This is a bit tougher on a modern Rick acoustic, as the joint doesn't correspond exactly with any specific fret, although it's close to the 15th, so it takes a bot more work and time with the steamer.

Of course, prior to this on highly finished guitars where the joint is covered with varnish or lacquer, the lacquer must be scored at the joint to the wood, so the finish doesn't chip badly. Later, a bit of new varnish can be added to smooth things over and minimize refinishing.

Once the neck is off, the heel is shaved to change the set angle to one that restores the action again. This is tedious work, involving very careful trimming and repeated refitting until it's perfect. The joint is then re-glued and the finish touched up.

On Taylors and other guitars with bolt-on necks, the neck is removed and the joint shimmed, or heel shaved as above.

[qwezirider]

Fabulous timing on that description, Paul. A military friend of mine who just returned home to Vegas was over last night and bemoaning his two Taylor acoustic necks showing signs of finish chipping and neck movement at the heel and discussing how a neck reset is going to work. As well as the minor lecture he received about putting a doggone humidifier in his guitar room.

[deaconblues]

Fascinating stuff...so, how many times can it be repeated? Can one expect a well-cared for guitar to remain playable for centuries like an old violin?

[bottom4]

Thanks for the thorough explanation, Paul!

How common is this actually?

I own two acoustic guitars, a Guild B50 (ABG) and a D’Agastino (US made) dreadnaught both are over 20 years old and with no issues after all this time and without any special care, mind you - knock on wood!

[ken_j]

Here is a link the shows a Taylor's neck joint in great detail: http://www.guitarnotes.com/links/rgoto. ... 2.0&rnum=0

[fireglo67]

Another acoustic guitar question.....

Is it ok to use the wonderful zymol (thanks Paul for recommending this product, it has changed my life!) on my glossy tobacca sunburst finish Takamine acoustic?

Cheers.

Rob

[whojamfan]

Rob, I've used it on my Les Pauls with great success.

[doctorwho]

Rob, I've used the product on my Gibson J-160Es to great success.

[johnallg]

Rob, here is what Takamine says:

KEEP IT CLEAN

There are many fine cleaning products available for your guitar at your local music store. Invest in a good polish and a couple of lint-free polishing rags.

* Wipe the strings down with a dry cloth after playing. Use guitar polish sparingly on the rest of the guitar.
* If the strings are dead or discolored, change them. We use D'Addario EXP16s from the factory. We use 4444 Adamas for nylon string models and EXP38 for our 12-string models. For routine changes, change strings one at a time. This will put less stress on the truss rod.
* On satin finishes, the wood will take on a nice patina (shine) over time. Again, use your polish sparingly!
* Use lemon oil or a "conditioner" on the fingerboard and bridge a couple of times a year, or if the wood looks dry. You'll need to take off all of the strings to do this.

I would think Zymol would work fine.

What model do you have? I got my daughter this one a few years ago and it is a beautiful and great sounding instrument. It's neck and playability reminds me of a Rick with low action very possible.
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1304&sid=524#

[fireglo67]

Rob, here is what Takamine says:

KEEP IT CLEAN

There are many fine cleaning products available for your guitar at your local music store. Invest in a good polish and a couple of lint-free polishing rags.

* Wipe the strings down with a dry cloth after playing. Use guitar polish sparingly on the rest of the guitar.
* If the strings are dead or discolored, change them. We use D'Addario EXP16s from the factory. We use 4444 Adamas for nylon string models and EXP38 for our 12-string models. For routine changes, change strings one at a time. This will put less stress on the truss rod.
* On satin finishes, the wood will take on a nice patina (shine) over time. Again, use your polish sparingly!
* Use lemon oil or a "conditioner" on the fingerboard and bridge a couple of times a year, or if the wood looks dry. You'll need to take off all of the strings to do this.

I would think Zymol would work fine.

What model do you have? I got my daughter this one a few years ago and it is a beautiful and great sounding instrument. It's neck and playability reminds me of a Rick with low action very possible.
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1304&sid=524#

Thanks John.

I was really looking for a Gibson, but the prices here in the UK are sky high at the moment. Regardless, I desperately needed a new acoustic for some gigs we have coming up so I went to a local guitar shop and tried a couple of Gibsons out, J45's and a Hummingbird, and to be honest for the money I wasn't blown away with them.
Long story short I ended up trying a Takamine EF340 SXF. For sound and playability it blew the Gibsons out of the water, it also has the 'Cool Tube' pre amp which has to be heard to be believed, it is superb. On top of all that, Korg UK who have just sold their Takamine franchise over to Fender are shifting old stock quickly, so I got the guitar for half price. So I got it for less than a third of the price of a Gibson Humingbird. Happy days!
I took it to rehearsals last weekend and the other guitarists in the band couldn't believe just how good it is. Easily the best acoustic guitar I've ever played. But then again, I've not had the pleasure of playing a Ric acoustic yet.

[johnallg]

Jeez, that is a bargain! Over here, Takamine has for decades been known as a poor man's Martin. For the $300 I paid for my daughter's, she got one hell of an instrument, much more than the Fenders, Yamahas, and others in that price range. Congrats on your find!

[fireglo67]

Thanks John. It is a beauty and I would say it's the poor mans nothing, it really is that good.

I think the RRP for my model is around £1000, but I got it for just under £500. So it is a one of the higher end Taks.

BTW. The Cd will be in the post tomorrow, hopefully this one will get to you!

Cheers

Rob.

[johnallg]

Rob, she is a beaut!
http://www.takamine.com/?fa=detail&mid=1053&sid=352#

Okay, I'll keep an eye open and let you know when it arrives. Thanks again.

[jingle_jangle]

Another acoustic guitar question.....

Is it ok to use the wonderful zymol (thanks Paul for recommending this product, it has changed my life!) on my glossy tobacca sunburst finish Takamine acoustic?

Cheers.

Rob

Zymol is great for anything with a high gloss finish. Good on chrome, plastic, and gold-plated hardware, too. On gold, don't rub too much--most gold parts are flash-plated and just the use of a cloth once too often will quickly wear away the plating! The gold on Ricks is much more durable than, say, Gretsches and Fenders, but you should still be careful.

Guitars with raw wood, or unfinished fretboards, or matte-finished guitars, do not accept Zymol well--you'll get a buildup in the wood cells on raw wood, and a spotty, patchy effect on matte varnish. Best thing for matte-finished guitars is Brillianize spray, which is made for acrylic plastics. It actually sheds fingerprints, and once used will clean easily with a soft, dry cloth. Do NOT use Brillianize for unfinished wood like fretboards; use Dr. Stringfellow's Lem-Oil to feed and nourish ebony fretboards.