Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Charly, you don't have to enlarge the switch hole. I only did that because I like the full size Les Paul spec switch. Guitar Parts resource has the CTS 500K concentric pots (part#MK0137-002)and the gold knobs(part#EP4586-000) to go with them. You'll also need another .047 cap to complete the mod. Part#XICON47 is closest to the RIC part.

Jeffrey, I wired my 4004L VV-switch in stereo. With round wound strings, I always tended to crank the tone anyway. The bass is like a no frills hot rod and this setup gives me the flexibility Jeff Rath speaks of. On my other 4004, it has flats and will be fretless. I feel it will need tone control so it will be concentric controls in stereo.

You shouldn't need a tone control on a fretless bass, just the position of your right hand along with some judicious palm muting when needed will give lots of tonal options. I play anywhere from the bridge up to the octave area on the neck depending on the sound I am looking for.

I just got the 4004MG back and this thing sounds bright with the Chromes. I love the sound, but there's times when I'll need to mellow it out(particularly when I'm playing up on the neck with my right hand "Charly style")and a tone control will be a must. I'm sure the tone will mellow a bit when the speed bumps go away, but not THAT much.

Dane, with Chromes, I like the neck tone about half open, bridge maybe 3/4 open or all the way up.

I have a Gibson Thunderbird with just VVT and miss the switch although I only use the switch for comparison purposes, I always use both pickups and set them pretty much like the others, bridge on full and neck backed off. I'm not sure about this Thunderbird, just got it and haven't used it live yet. I do like only one tone control though.

OK just ordered the parts for the VT/VT mod. where's the schematic to follow?

http://www.rickenbacker.com/pdfs/19501.pdf

With the mini-toggle, use one set of contacts outside tab for the pup/tone wires - center to the vol. pot, and the other set of contacts the opposite end tab for the pup/tone wires - center to the other vol. pot. Keep both sides of the switch seperate. Also watch how you wire the vol. pot - output to the mono jack at the outside of the pot, not the wiper.

Choose the outside tab on the switch contacts so when up or down, the correct (desired) pup is on. I wired mine down for bass, up for bridge - opposite of the factory. Bass is down deep, treble upper freqs.

Thanks John, you are da man!

My three sets of concentrics should be here any day. I ordered from Warmoth since noboody else had everything in stock. I'm looking forward to some bleary eyed marathon soldering.

Aw, pshaw! I've been down this road is all. And I just this past week figured out why I was having the problem of either volume pot killing all output - thus the caveat about wiring the vol/ pots.

I got my parts from Guitar Parts Resource. They had everything. I used a couple of stock RIC .047 tone caps that I already had which are different in appearance than the ones used in 4004's.

I used Dane's part #'s and got them at the same place he did, even though he switched 'em. The knob and pot numbers that is.

They have a nice heavy-duty gold switch, but it requires drilling the walnut.... haven't decided to go there yet. Depends on how long this switch lasts - the origional factory gold mini quit about a month after I got it - I'm at least the third owner, BTW.

People keep talking about that switch, but it seems strong enough to me. I only switch it between songs, for mellow or grind.