I thought I would start a heading on this to make this subject easier to find .
First , this past week I have had to deal with 5 fret jobs on different era Rickenbackers.
I refretted two newer guitars , with the Bubinga fretboard wood.From my standpoint ...why was this not used earlier?
This was so much nicer to deal with than the old stuff (meaning the Hong Kong Roswood / monkeywood or what ever it is that was used in the 1970's and more)
Gone were the chunks of fretboard that would come out , even using HEAT !
Gone were the fills that are cronic when fretting that stuff.
John Hall ....thanks for the switch.I say this for everyone that has to refret a Rick .
It was also nice to fret these newer guitars as the radius was already correct , it made the job easier .
The 1968 12 string fretboard was a joke ...chips, goofy radius , crud in the inlays ...now it looks great and will play great .
I still don't care for the clear on the fretboard feel wise , but as far as a 'look' it does stand out in a crowd.
So if you guys and gals have any FRET questions ...fire away .
Unless you want to know HOW to fret your own guitar . For that , I will say this .
It is one thing to know that Leonardo DeVinci used paints and brushes to paint the 'Mona Lisa',it is quite another thing to be able to actually paint the 'Mona Lisa' yourself.
Fretting is a lot of art a machine does not do it , the human factor is extremely high .
Fretboards ,binding and refretting
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Fretboards ,binding and refretting
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
It depends on ;
what type of instruments is being worked on ,
What the condition of the instruments is ,
What inlay work is on the fretboard,
Does the radius of the fretboard need reworking,
Has it been refretted by someone previously ,
Is there finish involved,
will a new nut be made ,
are there worn sections of the fretboard,
the type of wood tthe fretboard is made of ,
is there binding or no binding,
if there is binding -the condition of it (meaning does it have a surface edge that is able to be used as a ledge for setting the fret on top of),
the neck angle ,
The ability to get relief in the fretboard ,
and what size of wire is desired , and will it work with ALL of the conditions of the fretboard.
So ... if all things are 'perfect'(and they never are ) this is my current pricing and this is what you are getting;
A leveling/planing of the fretbaord surface,new nut,strobe tuning/intonation setting,parts check /tightening,truss rod adjustment for minimum relief,restringing with your choice of strings,the fretwire, the cost of the sandpaper,readjustment of all pickups , reassembling of the guitar after the planing of the fretboard(the tuners and pickups need to be removed )
Rosewood fretboard unbound unfinished $300.00
Rosewood fretboard with binding $325.00
Ebony fretboard with pearl inlays .....$360.00
Vintage Rick w/Crushed inlays and refinishing of the fretboard after fretting...........$460.00
New Rick (post 1984) without binding and respraying of the fretboard ...........$425.00
New Rick (post 1984)with binding ,with respraying of the fretboard ......................$450.00
Maple fretboard with polyester finish and NO binding ,sand out finger wear..........$450.00
Maple fretboard ,lacquer finish with vintage tint matching on pre 1970 Fenders $475.00
Acoustic guitars are another matter .....neck angle need to be considered and saddle location ALWAYS checked .Some guitars need to have the saddle moved or (in the case of height adjustable models ) that unit removed and a stationary saddle installed .
ALL saddles installed by me are compensated by me and are NOT a pre made molded (sort of correct) unit.
I use one of several materials ;bone , fossilized ivory (if you really must have that),micarta,and Black linen phenolic .There are other materials that can be used ...you must supply them .
I have photos of what these look like if you want to see one for 6 string flat top, 12 string flat top , classical , and 12 string acoustic strung like a Rick .
THere are more variations ...but this could go from brand/model ,for a long time .
If there are any people that have had this done by me , please feel free to add your opinions on whether it was worth it and what do you think of the difference after the work was done .
what type of instruments is being worked on ,
What the condition of the instruments is ,
What inlay work is on the fretboard,
Does the radius of the fretboard need reworking,
Has it been refretted by someone previously ,
Is there finish involved,
will a new nut be made ,
are there worn sections of the fretboard,
the type of wood tthe fretboard is made of ,
is there binding or no binding,
if there is binding -the condition of it (meaning does it have a surface edge that is able to be used as a ledge for setting the fret on top of),
the neck angle ,
The ability to get relief in the fretboard ,
and what size of wire is desired , and will it work with ALL of the conditions of the fretboard.
So ... if all things are 'perfect'(and they never are ) this is my current pricing and this is what you are getting;
A leveling/planing of the fretbaord surface,new nut,strobe tuning/intonation setting,parts check /tightening,truss rod adjustment for minimum relief,restringing with your choice of strings,the fretwire, the cost of the sandpaper,readjustment of all pickups , reassembling of the guitar after the planing of the fretboard(the tuners and pickups need to be removed )
Rosewood fretboard unbound unfinished $300.00
Rosewood fretboard with binding $325.00
Ebony fretboard with pearl inlays .....$360.00
Vintage Rick w/Crushed inlays and refinishing of the fretboard after fretting...........$460.00
New Rick (post 1984) without binding and respraying of the fretboard ...........$425.00
New Rick (post 1984)with binding ,with respraying of the fretboard ......................$450.00
Maple fretboard with polyester finish and NO binding ,sand out finger wear..........$450.00
Maple fretboard ,lacquer finish with vintage tint matching on pre 1970 Fenders $475.00
Acoustic guitars are another matter .....neck angle need to be considered and saddle location ALWAYS checked .Some guitars need to have the saddle moved or (in the case of height adjustable models ) that unit removed and a stationary saddle installed .
ALL saddles installed by me are compensated by me and are NOT a pre made molded (sort of correct) unit.
I use one of several materials ;bone , fossilized ivory (if you really must have that),micarta,and Black linen phenolic .There are other materials that can be used ...you must supply them .
I have photos of what these look like if you want to see one for 6 string flat top, 12 string flat top , classical , and 12 string acoustic strung like a Rick .
THere are more variations ...but this could go from brand/model ,for a long time .
If there are any people that have had this done by me , please feel free to add your opinions on whether it was worth it and what do you think of the difference after the work was done .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
here are a couple of things that I thought of that are part of frets and their condition;
SET UP of a used guitar with worn frets , this includes ; level ,recowning ,
polishing of the frets ,
adjust the truss rod after tuning the guitar WITH the brand and gauge of strings the customer normally uses,
checking /adjusting saddle notches for smoothness and following the curature of the fretboard ,
setting the bridge height,
checking /adjusting depth of the nut slots,
checking tuners (are they securely mounted,and are the buttons adjusted or in the case of celuloid-rotting),
cleaning the controls (switch contacts, pots , jack contacts , switching jacks contacts )
Strap buttons (are they tight ?loose? )
on bolt on necks , the neck angle
and then the pickup height adjustments and balance of the two or three pickups.
on a finished fingerboard , $95.00
on an unfinished fretboard $75.00
On a guitar that is new or rarely played and needs a slight fret dressing and not a radical recrowning of the frets , this includes all the other aspects noted previously...
finished fretboard , $70.00
unfinished fretboard $65.00
bass ................. $60.00
Why do I charge this much and a guy at a music store with a set of his Dad's plumbing tools charges far less.............????
Easy , The customer needs to talk to me going into this , they call and ask me if it is done yet , they come in to get the instrument , and want to know what I did ...when this is all written out (as is the LAW in the state of Washington) and everything is there on the ticket .
I am very thorough in this ... this time is included ...it is a 'comfort' item that is part of business ...but it takes my time away from YOUR guitars and the bench.
This is also due to the cost of overhead , and I am not funded by any orgainization.
I do my best to give the highest quality of work and try to out do the makers ...they have a level of standards that many customers want to have RAISED ...this is for any brand of instrument.
Why don't guitars come from the factory at this level ?
Answer .....too many variables and too many levels of playing standards.
A beginner does not appreciate the fine tuning of a quality instrument the way a seasoned player does .
I hope this info helps .
SET UP of a used guitar with worn frets , this includes ; level ,recowning ,
polishing of the frets ,
adjust the truss rod after tuning the guitar WITH the brand and gauge of strings the customer normally uses,
checking /adjusting saddle notches for smoothness and following the curature of the fretboard ,
setting the bridge height,
checking /adjusting depth of the nut slots,
checking tuners (are they securely mounted,and are the buttons adjusted or in the case of celuloid-rotting),
cleaning the controls (switch contacts, pots , jack contacts , switching jacks contacts )
Strap buttons (are they tight ?loose? )
on bolt on necks , the neck angle
and then the pickup height adjustments and balance of the two or three pickups.
on a finished fingerboard , $95.00
on an unfinished fretboard $75.00
On a guitar that is new or rarely played and needs a slight fret dressing and not a radical recrowning of the frets , this includes all the other aspects noted previously...
finished fretboard , $70.00
unfinished fretboard $65.00
bass ................. $60.00
Why do I charge this much and a guy at a music store with a set of his Dad's plumbing tools charges far less.............????
Easy , The customer needs to talk to me going into this , they call and ask me if it is done yet , they come in to get the instrument , and want to know what I did ...when this is all written out (as is the LAW in the state of Washington) and everything is there on the ticket .
I am very thorough in this ... this time is included ...it is a 'comfort' item that is part of business ...but it takes my time away from YOUR guitars and the bench.
This is also due to the cost of overhead , and I am not funded by any orgainization.
I do my best to give the highest quality of work and try to out do the makers ...they have a level of standards that many customers want to have RAISED ...this is for any brand of instrument.
Why don't guitars come from the factory at this level ?
Answer .....too many variables and too many levels of playing standards.
A beginner does not appreciate the fine tuning of a quality instrument the way a seasoned player does .
I hope this info helps .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
I have Ric 360/12 that needs very minor fret work. One of the frets {the 18th} appears too low--or the two frets on either side of it need to be crowned/dressed {it was never done at the factory}. I didn't notice it until my repair guy pointed it out--I never play that high up on a 12 string. He wouldn't fix it because of the finished fretboard--he said it was a major job.
I live in the LA area and the guy I go to won't do it--is there anyone decent out this way that could do it? Is is it a major job if one fret needs replacing?
I live in the LA area and the guy I go to won't do it--is there anyone decent out this way that could do it? Is is it a major job if one fret needs replacing?