To touch or not to touch the rods...

1rr3l3v4n7 · Post by **1rr3l3v4n7** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:16 am

Well... Could I have some advice please?

The strings (mostly E A and D) buzzes around the 3-6th frets of my new 4003. I tried to higher the bridge but, to eliminate most of the buzz, the action had to be too high and uncomfortable...

So, I`m thinking of adjusting the rods... just a bit... I have never done that before (adjusting the rods on a guitar or bass) because I`m really scared of breaking them. I heard so many stories about guitarists breaking to pieces the rod of their strat or stuff like that... BUT, I read the Neck adjustment section in the "Rickenbacker Guitar and Bass Care & Maintenance Manual" and I think I could do it (slight underbow problem I think).

well... anything guys?

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:56 am

on a 4003 the rods are easy to adjust ... you have to really, really overtighten them to break them and if you do the replacements are $40 and easy to install ... I adjust the rods twice a year for humidity changes in my house ...

jmh · Post by **jmh** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 4:50 pm

Does anyone else have a Ric that needs more aggressive truss turning than the prescribed quarter turn or so? With my '03 4003 I have to turn the rods usually a full turn, sometimes more at once. Small adjustments on mine just don't do anything, even after sitting for a few days. I had to readjust the rods after switching from Pyramid flats to D'Addario XL med gauge (45-105) 3/4 to a full turn. I've been using the neck binding to eye the straightness, hope it's fairly accurate.

jmh · Post by **jmh** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 4:57 pm

Karl, I believe the important part of adjusting the rods is using the right wrench. It needs to fit the nut correctly or you may end up with the nut bending out towards the truss rod cover. Rickenbacker sells the perfect wrench. If you do adjust the rods, adjust the two rods by the same amount. You really need gorilla strength to break them. I use the method of pushing back on the neck to straighten it out a bit while tightening the rods, just makes it easier for me.

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:13 pm

some rics require next to no adjustment and some really need to be turned down ... I had an '89 4003s5 that finger tight was almost enough to flatten the neck ... then I had another that would not flatten no matter what ... it got close to flat but never flat ... and you should be able to get back bow ...

heavypet · Post by **heavypet** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 6:30 pm

Really glad you posted this question, Karl.
Was gonna take the 4003 in to be set up by a pro, after having been delivered here to CA from GA.

Couldn't get a hold of a guy recommended to me.

So in the meantime, I too raised the bridge. I'm not sure if the action is now too high or not, but it doesn't seem quite right. (the buzzing is gone though!)

Maybe I'll give it a go DIY style too.

atomic_punk · Post by **atomic_punk** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 7:26 pm

One thing to remember,....PATIENCE! Easy does it! A little at a time, please!!

Maybe a 1/4 turn, then see what happens.
We've all seen the fretboard cracks on Ebay, just take it easy, if you feel resistance, stop. Let it sit for a while. This isn't something to do on the day of a gig.

heavypet · Post by **heavypet** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:50 pm

This sounds like advice from experience, Steve. Thanks for the warning.

So now I have to wonder:

Since I have to have the TRC off in order to access the rods, should I be removing the strings and then ajusting a 1/4 turn (both rods) and then replacing the strings and then checking it out?

Should I remove the strings just once in order to remove the TRC, and then replace the strings and then adjust the rods with the strings in place, to taste?

Should I be adjusting the bridge height during all of this? none of this?

None of us want to see a crack in even the coating over the paint, much less the neck wood itself.

I bet there's a FAQ or PDF for this sort of stuff...

cheyenne · Post by **cheyenne** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 1:29 am

You'll find some good advice here: http://www.joeysbassnotes.com/Rick_maint.htm

Joey is a forum member, and has a wonderful site.

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 3:38 am

It is the 1984 and older 4001 basses that had the old truss rod system that could pop off fret boards when improperly adjusted ... the 4003 is pretty safe and pretty easy to adjust ...

I take 4 string Ric basses and add a 5th string and then tighten down the rods and I have no problems ... the only one I had a problem with was a 4003s5 ... so I just used lighter strings and it was OK too ...

1rr3l3v4n7 · Post by **1rr3l3v4n7** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 7:30 am

Wow! Thanks a lot guys!!!!

I'll check it out and see what happens...

atomic_punk · Post by **atomic_punk** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 8:18 am

I still get a little nervous when doing it, that's all!

I was afraid of it for a long time too, that's why I am passing that along! Jeff and others have been doing it a lot longer than I have!
It's kind of a process where you have to adjust as you go...that's why guitar and bass setup are a real art form in itself.

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:26 am

If I read this right, it sounds like Karl needs a little more relief on his neck. If this is the case he would need to loosen the rods a little.

1rr3l3v4n7 · Post by **1rr3l3v4n7** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:56 pm

so counterclockwise then ?!

jmh · Post by **jmh** » Fri Sep 09, 2005 6:06 pm

Yes, counterclockwise.