12 Saddle bridge installation

byrddog · Post by **byrddog** » Mon Oct 03, 2005 2:47 am

New kid on the block here, looking for help in replacing a 6 saddle bridge with a 12 on my Rick 370. I received some minimal info from the music shop I mail ordered the saddle from, such as, after removing the 6 saddle, I would need to make an impression in the 12 bridge by tapping the strings with a light hammer, after that file the impression marks then???? well what else do I need to do? I know I could have this done by someone who knows what they're doing but I had rather save my money for a Jangle Box. I would appreciate all help.

admin · Post by **admin** » Mon Oct 03, 2005 8:39 am

Ron: Please leave this task to someone with experience. Setting up a 12 string is not difficult when you know how, but there are often many small adjustments to be made. Done incorrectly, the Jangle Box may be of limited value to you. If there is someone near you that works with Rickenbackers, I would solicit their help. The proper tools are really important here.

byrddog · Post by **byrddog** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 2:52 am

I know, I've been thinking about it and I should have the saddle change done by someone with the experience, but I don't know of anyone in my area (Kansas City) that works on Ricks....and being honest I don't trust a lot of folks out there that say they "can do it." I've had bad experience on another guitar repairs. I guess I really should see what Rickenbacker folks would charge to make the change.

steve_hershberger · Post by **steve_hershberger** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:32 am

Ron - In some respects I agree with Peter, but if you really want to learn how to set up and adjust your own guitars, there's no time like the present. And putting on a 12 saddle bridge is a perfect opportunity to learn.

But before you do anything, I'd suggest getting both of Dan Erlewine's books - "Guitar Player Repair Guide" and "How To Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great!" and read and reread them until you feel comfortable tackling the job. I don't think there's and "Rick specific" instructions in there, but the basics of action and intonation are fairly universal to *any* make of guitar, so it's a good starting point and the info can be adapted to cover any kind of adjustments on Ricks too.

You've got to start somewhere, right? And we're not talking about rocket surgery OR brain science here.

Just study up and try it yourself.

Just saying I think it'd be ridiculous to even think about sending your guitar back to the factory to have them do such a simple procedure.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:18 am

And start buying good-quality tools. All you need for this task is a good set of US standard Allen wrenches and a good-quality small jeweller's screwdriver set.

As far as I know, Rickenbacker does not do this type of setup work for owners.

winston · Post by **winston** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:33 am

Ron,

First, welcome to the forum. Second, please, never take a hammer to any guitar. You will need a good set of jewellers files to file the saddles for the strings to seat properly. Once you have done that get back to us and one of us will walk you through the process of setting up your intonation. It is not that difficult.

byrddog · Post by **byrddog** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:56 am

Steve:
Since I may not have any luck on finding someone around close to do the change-out..I will do just that as you recommended about the books. Anyway, I need to learn how to adjust the neck if need be.
Paul: Yes, I bought a set of small files sometime back but for the life of me I can't remember the brand...it's a common name...Home Depot sells them. I have a set of Allens on one knife set, but I will need the jeweller's screwdriver set. Yes, I realize now that Rickenbacker doesn't do this type of work.

Brian: Thanks for the welcome. About the hammer to the guitar I thought that part of the directions was, to say the least, strange and possibly not from this planet.
I sent an email to "Freeman" from the Rickenbacker Corporate forum where I read that he has a link to someone who has very detailed instructions on how to change out the saddles.

Thanks to all of you, I'll be back to let everyone know how I'm progressing with the change out. Still looking for the day I get my Jangle Box. Sure love that Byrds music.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Tue Oct 04, 2005 1:05 pm

Actually, the instructions to tap the string into the saddle with a hammer (in order to mark it) is one way to mark new saddles that is as old as the hills. The problem is that it sounds so dangerous that to most people who have no luthiery experience, it seems tantamount to destruction.

In fact, when the strings are in their proper place on new saddles, a light tap (getting heavier as the strings get fatter) will do a fine job of marking a slight indentation in the saddle to allow the file to get its purchase, and it's a darned sight more accurate than almost any method I know.

Just remember to use a small hammer to keep it controllable and a light touch until you get the result you want. The guitar needs to be on a nice cloth laid on a sturdy table or workbench.

steve_hershberger · Post by **steve_hershberger** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 4:17 am

Yep, Paul's right on in describing how to mark the saddles by hammering - OK, *tapping* - the strings when they're situated in their proper places on the saddles.

The main idea is just indent the tops saddle edges a bit. You can even use a nail set on top of each string so you're more precise - a hammer head can hit an adjoining saddle too.

Anyway, the next step will be to de-tune the string, move it aside, and then use a jeweler's file (or real small rat tail file) to take off any burrs or sharp edges on the saddles. Just make sure everything's smooth.

Of course, this is going to wreck your strings (especially the wound strings), so have a new set handy to install after you're done with the filing.

This whole process is easier to see and do than it is to describe it in words here. But I hope this helps a bit.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 4:29 am

99%, Steve-O.

If done properly with a small hammer, this will not wreck the strings a-tall.

Electric guitar strings are much harder than the Rick saddles. Even wound strings, tapped carefully with a hammer, will nick the saddles and neither kink nor separate.

It's all in the touch.

byrddog · Post by **byrddog** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:45 am

Well, now that is interesting...using the hammer...I must have been thinking a 16 oz. hammer

...the supplier did indeed say use a hammer, so I would assume, as you say, a small one. My wife has a small hammer with a brass head, sort of like a very small tack or upolstery hammer. Does anyone have an idea how deep the filings should be? I believe I can sacrafice my strings...they're not the Pyramids or other expensive ones.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Wed Oct 05, 2005 8:29 am

Hmmm. "How deep the filings should be". I could give you a number, but how would you measure it? I think a book on electric guitar repair, as Steve recommended, should be your next step, Ron. The shape and blending of the string slot also need to be taken into consideration.

firstbassman · Post by **firstbassman** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 8:19 am

Please inform: What is the background on the 12-piece saddle? Why don't the Ric 12s just come with it (instead of the six-string saddle)?
My six string guitars don't have a three-string saddle. My basses don't have only two saddles.
Thanks.

Speaking of: "please, never take a hammer to any guitar."

My (to me expensive) acoustic was having a very hard-to-diagnose intermittent buzzing problem when I first bought it. After bringing it to the local shop for the third time, the tech warned me: "I'm gonna use a hammer to do something, you may not want to watch."

He was right, even the thought of him using a hammer made me sick. But you know something? He fixed the problem.

jingle_jangle · Post by **jingle_jangle** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 9:19 am

A few answers. Strings should be buried about 3/4 of the way into the saddle for the larger ones. Adjust the smaller ones with a file until the clearance is just right on the first fret. Zero-nut, non-Rick guitars ignore this.

Six saddles on the 12s is how Rick has been doing this for years. RIC says that using their recommended string sizes, the intonation is good with a six saddle bridge and in fact a bit of misintonation is part of the classic Rick "jangle". To help those with a desire for better intonation accuracy, they also offer a 12-saddle bridge, which can be bought from their parts department or your local distributor if you're outside the USA.

If you've played an old Fender Tele, it would have had a three saddle bridge. And that's part of the classic Fender Tele sound.

budrocket · Post by **budrocket** » Thu Dec 22, 2005 10:42 am

Yes, it is part of "the sound," but Tele players have been bending their bridge saddles for years to help them intonate better...if fact you can even buy angled brass saddles.

bw