Need Help with a 370/12 Decision

tubeman · Post by **tubeman** » Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:20 pm

I am really considering a purchase of a RIC 370/12.
I have heard conflicting issues regarding having to possibly change the bridge to a 12 saddle bridge and having the nut modified.
Some people say it comes perfectly fine from the factory while just as many say it needs the modifications.
Will someone please tell me the true story?
Thanks in advance.

corey · Post by **corey** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:28 pm

The only true story is how you will feel when you crack open the case and start to play it.

In my experience, I had a 12 saddle bridge installed on my 2002 360/12 to give me better intonation (which it did). While still sometimes bothered by the lack of space on the fretboard, I have more or less learned to live with it as "par for the course" with this fine sounding instrument. I may get the mods that you spoke of done (wider nut) someday, but I'm in no big hurry.

If the lack of space on the fretboard feels like it will be a major issue for you, consider looking at the wide-necked 660/12 as well.

admin · Post by **admin** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 3:43 pm

Tubeman: The choice of bridge is a matter of preference, however, I really don't think there is much dispute when I say that the 12 string bridge will give you more flexibility in choosing different gauge strings. Many people are able to achieve the intonation they want with the 6 string bridge. I have a 12 string bridge on my 450/12 which I find to be excellent.

wkfoot · Post by **wkfoot** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 5:11 pm

Anthony, Heres some very non-technical advice. I purchased a 370 mapleglo 12 in 1969 It was stolen in 1970. I have owned more guitars than anyone with good sense would. Still after years I missed that Ric more than any other guitar I ever owned. This year I purchased a reissue toaster 360/12 and added a third pickup wired the origional way. Whenever I pick it up and play it I couldn't care if the bridge was made of compressed Hostess Twinkies. I love to play it and I love the sound of it. I use std Ric strings and am a very happy fellow. I now also have a 330/12 and an Epi Rivi12, A couple of strange 60s Japanese twelves and a takamime12. I am quite certifiably insane but trust your heart. BUY the bloody thing and ENJOY!

admin · Post by **admin** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 5:58 pm

Wkfoot: Well put. Life is short. Play on!

grsnovi · Post by **grsnovi** » Wed Nov 13, 2002 6:51 pm

Obviously RIC feels they are fine from the factory and it is very likely that any of the twelve string guitars you have heard recorded and love the sound of have stock six saddle bridges on them.

I currently own two RIC 12's a 360/12v64 and a 370/12. I found the intonation issue to be much less of a problem on the 370 than on the 360. I have installed 12 saddle bridges on both - but I could have lived with the six saddle on the 370.

I also own a fixed saddle Martin acoustic 12 string and have never even questioned the intonation on it.

I have a completely non-compensated bar bridge on a Gretsch 6128 Duo Jet and it also plays fine.

All of the rest of my electrics have variations of the "tune-o-matic" (adjustable saddle bridges) although both tele's have the traditional 3 saddle bridges.

Both of my RIC twelve strings have unmodified nuts and yes, the fretboard is "tight" up in the open position chordings. It often takes me a few minutes of playing the twelve to get the feel of it again - depending on what I was playing last.

Of late, I've been playing the 370/12 a lot. I currently favor it over the 360 and like the feel of the neck.

carr · Post by **carr** » Thu Nov 14, 2002 8:45 am

I have a 360/12 and 370/6. The major issue for me was adjusting to the fact that with the 370 was the middle pickup got in the way when picking. No problem with the 360. However , after a while, I got used to it which makes me wonder if I have changed the *depth of my picking * on the 360 too.

John

ricrocks · Post by **ricrocks** » Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:05 am

Gary said: "I currently own two RIC 12's a 360/12v64 and a 370/12."

"Of late, I've been playing the 370/12 a lot. I currently favor it over the 360 and like the feel of the neck."

Lately I have been considering another 12 string and these 2 models are at the top of my list.

I'm now playing a 660/12, and although the neck width is comfortable, I'm not convinced that the ball bat thickness isn't a drawback. I have smallish hands, and a touch of tendonitis to boot, so I'm thinking the narrow and thinner profile neck may suit me better.

The necks are skinnier on the 370 and the 360/12V64, but I'd like to know more about their shape as compared to the 660 neck. And also how they compare to each other. I keep reading that 370 players prefer its *feel*. Why is that? Whats the difference?? And is the 360V64 neck shape different from current 360 models?

Thanks

grsnovi · Post by **grsnovi** » Thu Nov 14, 2002 6:08 pm

Just a little checking on my two was somewhat surprising. While the two I have - have 21 and 24 fret necks, both necks essentially join the body at the same fret - its just that the 24 fret neck has more fingerboard over the body. Both guitars tip of tail to top of head stock are essentially the same. The neck on the 360 is about 0.035" thinner - although the actual neck profile appears to be nearly identical (I would have guessed otherwise). I took one of those molding profile gizmo's - the sandwich of pins that you can press against something to get a rough profile and checked each guitar at the 7th fret - both neck profiles eye-balled to be the same using a curve traced from the result. Note - I didn't put either on a CMM machine and take detailed profiling points...

I measured the "thickness" using a dial caliper OVER the strings again - at the 7th fret and the assumed the fret wire was the same - it may or may not be.

In any event I "feel" a difference between the two necks - the 370 neck feels "fatter" to me - I suspect that the 0.035 is enough to notice?

It may be that the rest of the "feel" has more to do with the body shape? although I actually find THAT somewhat harder to believe.

eatswodo · Post by **eatswodo** » Thu Nov 14, 2002 7:34 pm

David said:

"I'm now playing a 660/12, and although the neck width is comfortable, I'm not convinced that the ball bat thickness isn't a drawback. I have smallish hands, and a touch of tendonitis to boot, so I'm thinking the narrow and thinner profile neck may suit me better."

It may not work out the way you expect - I, too, have small hands, but have a terrible time with slim necks. I have a 650D, which I imagine has a profile like a 660, and an old Martin 0-16NY, which is of similar bulk, and they are both extremely comfortable for me. I also have a Danelectro Hodad, which is significantly skinnier. While it undoubtedly has a very nice neck (especially for such an inexpensive instrument), I can't play it for any length of time without getting cramps.

Whatever you try, spend some time with it before you commit!

Cheers,
David

ricrocks · Post by **ricrocks** » Fri Nov 15, 2002 7:16 am

Thanks guys. Gary... you went way beyond the call of duty man

I agree that spending time with each is best. But this is a VERY dry area for Rics. I know of only (2) 12s in stock, either is an hours drive away and both are new 360/12s. Next closest is maybe 2.5 hour drive and they all basically stock the same thing. So I doubt that I will be able to test anything firsthand any time soon. Hopefully, I can deal with this round of GAS and be patient. lol

steve350v63 · Post by **steve350v63** » Fri Dec 06, 2002 11:04 am

Well I started this post back on November 12th.
Today my 370/12 FG was delivered. What a dream.
I had the nut and a 12 saddle bridge put on.
The spacing is perfect. I thank you all for your comments and to Gary at North Coast Music and Jim at Jim's Guitar Repair.