My First Rickenbacker
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
My First Rickenbacker
Hey guys and gals. I've been playing for quite a while now and I think it's time for my first Ric bass but I don't know what to get. Should I get an older minty 4001 for $2000 or should I get a brand new 4003 for $1200? As far as vintage Rics go whats better? Early to mid 70s or an 80s model. Also I've read that older Rics weren't designed for round wound strings....Is that true? If it is and there may be problems down the road...what year is best to get that will hold up to the tension of round wounds? Has anyone ever had problems with using rounds? AS far as 4003s go...are the new ones as good as let's say one that was built in 1990? I would love to have some answers to my questions. I love the sound of a Ric and I know nothing about them.
One thing I DO know is that I WILL be buying one in the next month or so....I just don't know what to get. Please help me guys.....I need someone to help me to "Ric"tafy this dilemma.
....Oh yes....Some day it will be mine!!!!
One thing I DO know is that I WILL be buying one in the next month or so....I just don't know what to get. Please help me guys.....I need someone to help me to "Ric"tafy this dilemma.
....Oh yes....Some day it will be mine!!!!
'73 4001 MG '88 4003S JG '89 4003S FG '91 4003S MG
Welcome! There have been some who have had problems with heavier tension rounds & older Ricks, but there have been many more folks who have had no trouble. It really seems to depend on the particular bass.
Early ones (late '60's) have very thin necks, so that is where the trouble began, but early '70's to '80's should present a pretty stable subject. Plus, the rounds available today can be found in lower tensions than the old Rotos of the past.
There does still tend to be a slight problem with bridge lift with older instruments, but not always. There usually is some lift not enough to matter.
I have a '76, '77. & an '81 and have had no neck or bridge lift problems at all, & I've used rounds on them for up to 20 years.
Of course, you really can't go wrong buying a new 4003. They are made stronger now than the older ones could be, but it really comes down to personal preference.
I've learned more about Ricks since I found this forum last year than the 20 years owning Ricks!

Early ones (late '60's) have very thin necks, so that is where the trouble began, but early '70's to '80's should present a pretty stable subject. Plus, the rounds available today can be found in lower tensions than the old Rotos of the past.
There does still tend to be a slight problem with bridge lift with older instruments, but not always. There usually is some lift not enough to matter.
I have a '76, '77. & an '81 and have had no neck or bridge lift problems at all, & I've used rounds on them for up to 20 years.
Of course, you really can't go wrong buying a new 4003. They are made stronger now than the older ones could be, but it really comes down to personal preference.
I've learned more about Ricks since I found this forum last year than the 20 years owning Ricks!

Plus five minus five!
I agree with Jeff. I like the newer ones too, the high gains sound really nice. I love the reissue vintage pick-ups in the C and V basses too. All of these are stronger than their older counterparts in terms of neck and truss rod strength in general. Some older basses did just fine though, like my 1976 4001. I had Roto 66 rounds on it. The frets took a beating, but the neck did fine.
I recently went back to playing a Rickenbacker bass. Its like meeting an old friend again
- rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
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- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
Well thanks guys. I really appreciate the quick responses. I have thought about getting a new one but there's something about that burgandy color that blows my mind. I really like this one being sold on Ebay as I type.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7403007132&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Unfortunately I have to sell 2 vintage Gibsons in order to pay for a Ric. Check 'em out...maybe one of you guys might want an old Gibson
Look under user name ben-brown.
Enough of that. Are any different year Rics have better necks than others? I like a thin neck both ways...width and depth. Is there any advantages or disadvantages to the shark fin markers or lack of? What about the binding.....Does anyone's Ric have binding that is loose or missing? Is that an issue or does it last as long as you take care of it. You see I have never had a 'new' bass. Everything I have ever had was an old Fender or Gibson. What does the "C" and "V" mean on these basses? I saw a reissue of some kind that had the toaster and horseshoe pickups on it. Are they any count? Is there much difference in the sound of these old pickup designs from the newer pups?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7403007132&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1 Unfortunately I have to sell 2 vintage Gibsons in order to pay for a Ric. Check 'em out...maybe one of you guys might want an old Gibson
Look under user name ben-brown. Enough of that. Are any different year Rics have better necks than others? I like a thin neck both ways...width and depth. Is there any advantages or disadvantages to the shark fin markers or lack of? What about the binding.....Does anyone's Ric have binding that is loose or missing? Is that an issue or does it last as long as you take care of it. You see I have never had a 'new' bass. Everything I have ever had was an old Fender or Gibson. What does the "C" and "V" mean on these basses? I saw a reissue of some kind that had the toaster and horseshoe pickups on it. Are they any count? Is there much difference in the sound of these old pickup designs from the newer pups?
'73 4001 MG '88 4003S JG '89 4003S FG '91 4003S MG
- rickenbrother
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 13194
- Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 5:00 am
Ben, for your answer to the V63 and the C64 question, read thru the posts here. There's also a C section on the forum as well. The various sounds/ feel/ look/ aesthetics of the basses is discussed in LARGE volume all thru the threads. A single response would be inadequate.
"If you think you can or if you think you cannot - either way you are right." Henry Ford.
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jwr2
I have owned a 1968, 1973, 1974, 1976, 1979, 1983, 1986, 1989, 1990, 1993, 1996, 1997, 1998, 2001 ... the old basses are cool ... my 1968 had a cool vintage vibe ... my 73 was a very good gigging bass ... but the 1986 and later basses have stronger necks, a better truss rod design, louder pickups, and they are newer with less wear and tear ... but there are those who love the feel and sound of the older basses ...
In short...you need more than one!
The binding only seems to separate when the bass is not well cared for: left to expand & contract at will due to temp. extremes, etc. My '76 & '81 have no binding issues. It doesn't seem to ba a common happening.
That Burg is cool. But, again, you really can't go wrong with a new 4003! They will hold their value & be stronger &, of course, have no wear.
With the new tone selector knob you can have the best of both worlds: strength, vintage or modern tone, new frets & finish.
The binding only seems to separate when the bass is not well cared for: left to expand & contract at will due to temp. extremes, etc. My '76 & '81 have no binding issues. It doesn't seem to ba a common happening.
That Burg is cool. But, again, you really can't go wrong with a new 4003! They will hold their value & be stronger &, of course, have no wear.
With the new tone selector knob you can have the best of both worlds: strength, vintage or modern tone, new frets & finish.
Plus five minus five!
Are all 4001 and 4003 basses made of mahogany? I thought the older ones were maple. What year did they start with a stronger neck? Was it in 80-81?
'73 4001 MG '88 4003S JG '89 4003S FG '91 4003S MG
