Wavey Grover problem
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- bob_atherton
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Wavey Grover problem
I have mentioned this on the Sergio's PUPs thread as well. I have recently got a 4000 bass that is in good condition except for one of the tuners. One of the backs on the wavey Grovers keeps falling off because one of the locating lugs has been snapped off.
I was going to glue with epoxy resin and clamp for a few days. Is this wise or foolish? Is there a better way of sorting this?
Some years ago I had a Grover that kept falling off with all the lugs intact. I glued that one and was good ever after.
I was going to glue with epoxy resin and clamp for a few days. Is this wise or foolish? Is there a better way of sorting this?
Some years ago I had a Grover that kept falling off with all the lugs intact. I glued that one and was good ever after.
JH has suggested fixing them with a small center punch and a hammer. Take the tuner off of the headstock. The face that goes against the back of the headstock has 4 round holes were then pins (lugs) from the cover present themselves. JH says if you spread the ends of the pins slightly with the punch the cover will stay on pretty much forever. I have never tried it but I am sure his advice is good.
I'll have to try that too. I have a 4001 that had the same problem with the A tuner. I replaced it with an unused wavy that a friend of mine bought (he also had the same problem but with the E).
I decided to retire the bass because we were playing out once, the back of the tuner popped off, and the A string unwound. Those were the old days, when I only had one bass. It was the end of our set.
I decided to retire the bass because we were playing out once, the back of the tuner popped off, and the A string unwound. Those were the old days, when I only had one bass. It was the end of our set.
I think I should buy another bass...
- thinneckrick
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- bob_atherton
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- bob_atherton
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- jingle_jangle
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Umm, Bob, forget the glue, at least any glue you're aware of.
Gluing metal, unless there are large contact surfaces, simply doesn't work. Yes, I know that some joints in modern airplanes and race cars are glued. But,
(a) these adhesives are not generally easy to find, nor are they available to the general public;
(b) the joints are specifically designed for adhesive joining, with the various force vectors calculated;
(c) not chrome plated and shiny, but treated to enhance adhesion on a molecular level.
Trying to use an epoxy (or today's often-misused panacea solution, super-glue) to join a skinny edge to a flat plate, when both parts are smooth and shiny chrome plated, is an exercise in futility.
I do, however, have ONE adhesive trick up my sleeve that I'll share with you. This is an adhesive that will work in this case, will last a long time (depending upon surface preparation), and in fact is the only commonly-available adhesive that will join virtually any two rigid or semi-rigid materials.
It's called "Aquaseal". It's a moisture-curing, high-tensile-strength RTV rubber that I discovered when I needed to repair my wet suit about 10 years ago. Its only drawback (to some) is that it is an overnight cure.
Aquaseal is available at sporting goods stores that are large enough to have a scuba department or at specialized scuba shops. Comes in a small tube. Is gooey and translucent. Not too easy to apply in small spaces (I use a toothpick or matchstick).
Preparation: If you're going to try to secure a Grover case to the baseplate where there's a missing pin, you need to rough up the contact areas on both surfaces. Trick: Scotchbrite. It does a fine job of scuffing chrome, and the tiny scratches are just what Aquaseal needs to be really clingy.
Obviously, no grease or oil or dirt can be present. Use a toothpick to apply a small bead of Aquaseal around the perimeter of the base plate. There should be enough glue to squish out when you put the cover back on. Then--put the cover back on. Leave the posts alone for the time being.
Let the glue cure overnight in a warm place. They do sell an accelerator, but my success with it has not been 100%.
Once the glue has grabbed, you can then punch the posts that remain. Just make the tuner is well-mounted or, if off the bass, put it into a vise. Any excess cured glue that's visible can be trimmed with a sharp Ex-Acto knife or razor blade.
This method will even hold the case on a tuner that is missing ALL its posts, if done correctly.
This stuff is also great if the key has gone loose in the post slot, or possibly has come off entirely.
I keep several tubes of Aquaseal in my toolbox. I don't use it much in my guitar work, but for odd situations that demand a high-performance adhesive, it is unbeatable.
Gluing metal, unless there are large contact surfaces, simply doesn't work. Yes, I know that some joints in modern airplanes and race cars are glued. But,
(a) these adhesives are not generally easy to find, nor are they available to the general public;
(b) the joints are specifically designed for adhesive joining, with the various force vectors calculated;
(c) not chrome plated and shiny, but treated to enhance adhesion on a molecular level.
Trying to use an epoxy (or today's often-misused panacea solution, super-glue) to join a skinny edge to a flat plate, when both parts are smooth and shiny chrome plated, is an exercise in futility.
I do, however, have ONE adhesive trick up my sleeve that I'll share with you. This is an adhesive that will work in this case, will last a long time (depending upon surface preparation), and in fact is the only commonly-available adhesive that will join virtually any two rigid or semi-rigid materials.
It's called "Aquaseal". It's a moisture-curing, high-tensile-strength RTV rubber that I discovered when I needed to repair my wet suit about 10 years ago. Its only drawback (to some) is that it is an overnight cure.
Aquaseal is available at sporting goods stores that are large enough to have a scuba department or at specialized scuba shops. Comes in a small tube. Is gooey and translucent. Not too easy to apply in small spaces (I use a toothpick or matchstick).
Preparation: If you're going to try to secure a Grover case to the baseplate where there's a missing pin, you need to rough up the contact areas on both surfaces. Trick: Scotchbrite. It does a fine job of scuffing chrome, and the tiny scratches are just what Aquaseal needs to be really clingy.
Obviously, no grease or oil or dirt can be present. Use a toothpick to apply a small bead of Aquaseal around the perimeter of the base plate. There should be enough glue to squish out when you put the cover back on. Then--put the cover back on. Leave the posts alone for the time being.
Let the glue cure overnight in a warm place. They do sell an accelerator, but my success with it has not been 100%.
Once the glue has grabbed, you can then punch the posts that remain. Just make the tuner is well-mounted or, if off the bass, put it into a vise. Any excess cured glue that's visible can be trimmed with a sharp Ex-Acto knife or razor blade.
This method will even hold the case on a tuner that is missing ALL its posts, if done correctly.
This stuff is also great if the key has gone loose in the post slot, or possibly has come off entirely.
I keep several tubes of Aquaseal in my toolbox. I don't use it much in my guitar work, but for odd situations that demand a high-performance adhesive, it is unbeatable.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- jingle_jangle
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As Jim mentioned. it will bond glass. I've used it to repair salt water aquariums.
It will bond darned near anything you can think of, too. And its excellent penetrating properties make it good for things like cloth, foam, and its intended use, wet suit material.
Glass, wood, cloth, polyethylene and polypropylene (which NOTHING else works well on), metals, rigid and semi-rigid plastics, vinyl, foams. It does not work on Teflon (polytetrafluorethylene or PTFE) and similar exotics. Note that it is not recommended for high-heat applications, either.
It will bond darned near anything you can think of, too. And its excellent penetrating properties make it good for things like cloth, foam, and its intended use, wet suit material.
Glass, wood, cloth, polyethylene and polypropylene (which NOTHING else works well on), metals, rigid and semi-rigid plastics, vinyl, foams. It does not work on Teflon (polytetrafluorethylene or PTFE) and similar exotics. Note that it is not recommended for high-heat applications, either.
“I say in speeches that a plausible mission of artists is to make people appreciate being alive at least a little bit. I am then asked if I know of any artists who pulled that off. I reply, 'The Beatles did.”
― Kurt Vonnegut
― Kurt Vonnegut
- bob_atherton
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