
Another 4001C64 Tailpiece situational question
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- rickinroma
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Just leave it alone David. Look at all the trouble you had the last time you tinkered with the bass. I'm only saying this as a friend who watched you suffer more than you should have on the last modification you did. I would hate to see you go through something like that again.
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I believe Francesco was saying, of course, if it ever DOES start to lift. Meaning ONLY if it starts to lift.
If it becomes an obcession, I would get a 4003 tailpiece, put it on, and save the origional for the outside chance you have to sell it. The holes could be filled with maple enough to seal over in that event.
If it becomes an obcession, I would get a 4003 tailpiece, put it on, and save the origional for the outside chance you have to sell it. The holes could be filled with maple enough to seal over in that event.
- rickinroma
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Yes, John, thanks for explaining better...my english is almost as bad as my italian sometimes LOL
David, if your bass has no lift at all at the moment, it is good that you found out the two additional screw locations to use just IN CASE a tailpiece lift starts.
In that case, of course I agree with the idea of buying a 4003 tailpiece replacement so you can save the original C64 one
David, if your bass has no lift at all at the moment, it is good that you found out the two additional screw locations to use just IN CASE a tailpiece lift starts.
In that case, of course I agree with the idea of buying a 4003 tailpiece replacement so you can save the original C64 one

- rickinroma
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From what I've seen, and read, that seems to be a very common problem on the C64s. I saw one that was actually very bad, ~1/4"... kept me from buying it.
As some have mentioned; once you have lift, it's too late. If you don't care about the cosmetics, why not just put on a new 4003 tailpiece. Toss (gently) the original in the case, and play it!
My two p...
As some have mentioned; once you have lift, it's too late. If you don't care about the cosmetics, why not just put on a new 4003 tailpiece. Toss (gently) the original in the case, and play it!
My two p...
Rickenbacker '64 & '68 4001 basses ♦ Fender Pre-CBS J & P Basses and 1968 Telecaster Bass ♦ Moog Taurus III Bass Pedals ♦ Hiwatt (Hylight) Amplification
"A good bassist determines the direction of any band."- Ron Carter
"A good bassist determines the direction of any band."- Ron Carter
Adding the two screws in the standard 4003 locations will not guarantee that the tailpiece stays put. Adding the two screws at the rear like the first 4003's will keep it from lifting. Now I'm not saying your bass doesn't sound good, but once the portion of the tailpiece that the strings go through at the rear of the tailpiece leaves the surface of the body, the sound will change. New tailpieces are $175.00. That's a lot to pay to keep your bass from losing value due to two added screws. I wish RIC would just move the two screws behind the bridge further back on the tailpiece. You'd still only see two screws holding it down.
My '68 (3 screw) never moved at all, and I used Rotosounds exclusively! Also, from what I've read here and elsewhere, every other pre-72 owner has stated the same thing.
I would like to see Ric fabricate these with the same material used originally... aluminum alloy, I believe. Some say that a "little" tail lift is acceptable, but I disagree. A metal part like this should be dimensionally stable for its intended application. Ric representatives have stated that strings with higher tension can make the tailpiece lift. Fine... I can understand that, even thought the earlier tailpieces didn't. But why can't the new C-series tailpieces handle the load placed on them by the Ric branded strings!
I LOVE the Ric 4001 design and aesthetics, and have played them since 1968. But as a customer, I will say that I do believe this is a genuine quality issue. I wouldn't presume to tell the company what they should do. Many owners of the C-series basses have spoken on this issue, and are unhappy about it. I would like to see this post taken as constructive criticism, which it is... nothing more.
Cheers
I would like to see Ric fabricate these with the same material used originally... aluminum alloy, I believe. Some say that a "little" tail lift is acceptable, but I disagree. A metal part like this should be dimensionally stable for its intended application. Ric representatives have stated that strings with higher tension can make the tailpiece lift. Fine... I can understand that, even thought the earlier tailpieces didn't. But why can't the new C-series tailpieces handle the load placed on them by the Ric branded strings!
I LOVE the Ric 4001 design and aesthetics, and have played them since 1968. But as a customer, I will say that I do believe this is a genuine quality issue. I wouldn't presume to tell the company what they should do. Many owners of the C-series basses have spoken on this issue, and are unhappy about it. I would like to see this post taken as constructive criticism, which it is... nothing more.
Cheers
Rickenbacker '64 & '68 4001 basses ♦ Fender Pre-CBS J & P Basses and 1968 Telecaster Bass ♦ Moog Taurus III Bass Pedals ♦ Hiwatt (Hylight) Amplification
"A good bassist determines the direction of any band."- Ron Carter
"A good bassist determines the direction of any band."- Ron Carter
The the two additional screws in the 4003 tailpiece aren't in the optimal location. Adding two screws at the rear like the first 4003's, 4003S/5's and 4003S/8's will do it. I would add the two screws at the rear of your tailpiece, in spite of what anyone says about hurting the originality of it. After all, it IS a reissue bass, not an original '64.
Firmly re-attatching the tailpiece to the body will result in a solid frequency boost in the upper lows and mids. I have the screws there on my 4008(very necessary) and I don't notice it that much and not at all when I'm playing. To RIC's credit, John Hall once said that although this problem was fixed with the early 4003, customers complained about the cosmetics of it so they were removed.
