Taking out the 3rd string Buzz

Setup, repair and restoration of Rickenbacker Instruments

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Mike_Ellenberger

Taking out the 3rd string Buzz

Post by Mike_Ellenberger »

I recently purchased a new 360 and have been setting it up to play jazz. I have some Pyramid 13s on it currently and have adjusted the truss rod to about .009 relief at the 6th and 12th fret as was recommended in that topic. When I set the bridge height on the 6th-4th strings I am able to achieve a good feel on those strings with little or no buzz depending on the picking stroke. When I move to adjust the other side (1st-3rd) I can get a nice clean sound and good feel on the 1st and 2nd string but it seems with the right pick stroke the 3rd string can be made to make an almost sitar like sound. Even with the bridge raised to its maximum height this problem still exists as I play notes beginning at Bb and moving up the neck with somewhat less noise up around
Eb.

I tried reversing the saddle on the 3rd string to
give it more height but this didn't cure the problem. I also checked for vibrations but couldn't find any as I played the bad notes.

I'm a baffled as to why only the 3rd string makes noise (I suspect it's hitting higher frets as it vibrates) when the adjacent strings are fine. Could this be a bad string? Does the Pyramid G vibrate too much? I don't get it.

Thanks,
Mike
markthemd
Veteran RRF member
Posts: 1479
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 8:59 pm

Post by markthemd »

Some things to try,
1- do you have any files?
if so I'd take a triangular file and slop the string notch more.Don't go digging in to far.Take a black felt pen and blacken the top of the groove.This will show you where you have cut.You want a good clean breaking point.
2-grab the saddle and see if it moves sideways.If it does ,then you need a hammer and some kind of hard metal surface .I use my vice ,which has an anvil like surface on one side.
I put a screw into the hole in the saddle.DON"T use the stock screw.If you screw it up then you have a new problem.Take a hammer(not a waffle head) and strike the corner of the saddle.This will curl the aluminum slightly.Don't hit it as hard as you can.Just a little.To check to see if you have in fact done this...turn a light on and set the saddle on a flat surface.Check for light under the saddle.This will show the curl.
Now reinstall the saddle and your rattle /sitar should be gone .If not let me know.

To remove the nut from this ,install a capo .If you still have the sound ,then the nut is not the problem.

If after you have done all of this and it still is there.I hate to say this but go get a wound third string made by someone else and remove the Pyramid.It is possible that you have a defective string.I get defective strings from time to time from ALL makers.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Mike_Ellenberger

Post by Mike_Ellenberger »

The nut is definitely not part of the equation because when I fret the note on the 5th fret I get the noise and the nut doesn't come into play because my finger is between it and the fret.In option 1) you suspect the string could rattle in the saddle (nice) and cause the noise? Looking at the saddle for the third string, there is a nice groove for the string to rest. If I capo the 4th fret and put my finger on the saddle, there is still a noise and I detect no vibration of the string in the saddle. In fact, if I put my ear close to the fretboard I can hear places the noise is coming from. I suspect some high frets though I'd prefer it to just be a string. I'm going to put a little more relief on the neck to see if that helps. I like a flat neck but this buzz is driving me crazy. The 3rd string rings fine open and on certain frets so unless it travels more because of the lower tension and this causes the buzzing it's probably not the string. Maybe I'll sacrifice a set of D'Addarios tomorrow. Until then it's two aspirins and more relief on the neck.Thanks,Mike
Mike_Ellenberger

Post by Mike_Ellenberger »

After some more research I found the 14th and 21-24 frets to be a little high. There may be others but in any case no amount of adjustments I can make will cure the buzz. I plan to return the guitar to Rickenbacker under their warranty to have neck fixed. I suppose after a guitar is manufactured the neck can go out; it's sure annoying.

Thanks,
Mike
Mike_Ellenberger

Post by Mike_Ellenberger »

Rickenbacker informed me the .013 gauge is too heavy for the 360 guitar (as far as their warranty is concerned). They will install .010 gauge and set the guitar back to factory specs. I also hope they will check the neck for high frets as I've asked. Even though they make a set of .012 gauge they said the warranty only covers this guitar when .010 gauge strings and would not install & check the guitar with the heavier strings. I'm waiting to get the guitar back to see how it plays and what they report.

Mike
markthemd
Veteran RRF member
Posts: 1479
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 8:59 pm

Post by markthemd »

I understand their point of view ,but in light of the rest of the world it seems out of line .
Let me qualify that this warranty is also meant to cover the old style truss rods and it is a blanket warranty .It does not cover just one type of neck reinforcement.
So the reality is ,if you do have the "New and improved" truss rods.It would be possible to make this work.
Realise that the rods you have are the same as a Gibson or a Fender and they should be fine.
If you had the old style rods .....well care to play Russian roulette?

Anyway,once it comes back ....check the fret buzz aspect.
Go to my posting on "How not to adjust Truss rods" and run thru the check list.If all is okay then ....let me know.
I have some ideas for you .But lets see first.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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