4003 mute modification - is this possible?

[sloop_john_b]

I use the mute quite a bit on my v68 bass, and the twisting of the mute screws gets pretty tiresome (and cuts up the sides of my fingers too!). Is there a way to spring-load the mutes so that I could simply pull them up and push them back down quickly?

[aceonbass]

No.

[sloop_john_b]

Dang.

[aceonbass]

I've actually given this idea some thought before and couldn't come up with anything that didn't involve re-engineering the bridge screws and putting the springs on the outside while modifying that area of the tailpiece....something I don't think you'd want to do to your V68.

[admin]

Would it not be possible to modify the top edge of replacement knobs by grinding them smooth to at least make it easier on the fingers? This is only a partial fix but it is a start. The original knobs would be kept safe and sound for returning the instrument to its original condition.

[johnallg]

Peter, the reason they dig the fingers is usually they are not that easy to adjust. If ground smooth, you'd never get them where you need them in any kind of timely manner on stage.

John - spring-loaded from below the metal pad holder with the knob being not threaded but with a slot in the tailpiece hole and a tab that you could latch the mute up or down seems plausible, but it would alter the tailpiece and also how would you control the amount of pad pressure on the strings and also insure it is even? I agree, it is a ***** to adjust the mute.

[ken_j]

Change the screw to a hex-headed screw and then modify a string winder (with a socket) or fabricate a tool to turn it. That would be fast and easy to use on stage.

[jingle_jangle]

How about something like this:

[rickenbrother]

The mute screws on the the new 4003's turn much easier than on the older basses. I've also had that skin on the sides of my fingers get torn up by mute screws on a 4001 that were difficult to turn. Sometimes the threads on the screws and mute plate have to be cleaned and lubed.

[jingle_jangle]

I wasn't kidding. These flat thumbscrews are super-easy to turn and available in the correct size.

[sloop_john_b]

Paul, those look great. Obviously might look a bit silly, but having something more functional is the key here. I'll give 'em a whirl - where can I get 'em?

[aceonbass]

I would tend to think they would get in your way while playing. Ultimately, I think the best thing is to remove the "teeth" in the tailpiece between the strings (like an S5 or 4008) so you can palm mute.

[sloop_john_b]

I would tend to think they would get in your way while playing. Ultimately, I think the best thing is to remove the "teeth" in the tailpiece between the strings (like an S5 or 4008) so you can palm mute.

They wouldn't, Dane - my hand rests on the pickup cover when picking.

[jingle_jangle]

They're from my old buds, McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com

Enter "thumbscrews" in the search box at upper left. Measure your old ones for length. I believe these are 10-24 thread...

[rickinroma]

John
I think there are a couple of things to do to make the whole thing easier, without having to modify anything (temporarily or permanently)

- turn just a little bit the first one screw and then a little bit the other one, repeating the sequence until you get the necessary set up you require. If you turn the first one all at once it may become really tiresome expecially when you start with the second one (but I suppose you know that already)
- try to use (I do) a small thick cotton cloth to protect your fingers; it'll help you