Glue for fretboard

[antonius]

Hi there,

I need some advice. While looking at adjusting the truss rods on my 1975 4001 I noticed that the fretboard was coming away from the neck on the g string side of the neck - from the nut to the 1st fret. The truss rod nuts are are also bent down and so I assume that at some point the rods had been adjusted without first taking the tension off the neck (a common occurence I gather). I've had the bass for 18 years but since I always used the same strings and the neck and action felt right I never took off the truss rod cover and wasn't aware of these problems. But now I have changed strings to save wear on the frets and I want to make a slight adjustment to the neck (I'm now using DR Hi-Beam 45-105). I am contemplating trying the straighten the truss rod nuts (with a clamp firmly in place!) prior to adjusting the neck relief but my immediate concern is the fretboard problem. Can anyone recommend a good glue for this - something that is available in the UK? Should I glue the fretboard first, or sort out the truss rods first? Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.

[jingle_jangle]

Welcome, Anthony!

Here's what I'd do:

1. Pull the truss rods and see to getting the ends straight once again and the threaded portion cleaned up properly. This is easiest done by putting the rods in a vice, and with the truss rod nuts threaded on to their full length, grab the nut with a crescent wrench or a smooth-jaw Vise-Grip, and bend back. They are only mild steel and easy to tweak. Note: do not bend back and forth; that's a formula for rod-shortening--a more complex process--or replacement and these have to be made or bought on the used market.

2. While the rods are out, locate some gap-filling super glue at a hobby store. I prefer a brand called Zap-A-Gap; I don't know if it has UK distribution; but I'm sure that one of those model train anorak fellows can set you right on this. You do not want "water-thin". The glue should have some body; neither should it be of the gel type. (Water thin runs all over the place; gel won't penetrate the crack properly.

3. Cover the neck and fretboard with masking tape in the area of the crack; two layers is required. You will need a Jorgensen-type wood clamp, too...a local woodshop of any kind would have one or a larger hardware/lumber/DIY place might sell 'em...they're gonna run £15-20, but if you use it once and keep it clean, you might be able to return it for a refund...

4. Run some gap-filling super glue into the crack. Have a rag or paper towel ready to carefully wipe away any overflow. Pad both jaws of the clamp by taping clean soft cloths over the jaws. Now, place the clamp over the area and tighten down using the screw farthest from the jaws--it's the muscular one. Wipe away any excess and let sit for a few hours.

If necessary, you may have to sand the area with #2000 wet or dry and a block, and then buff with some fine polishing compound. wax, reinstall rods and you're ready to properly set it up this time!

[ben_brown]

I did this same repair on my 73 4001 once. Before I applied any CA I cut a block of wood(pine) with the same radius as the neck and had everything ready. You'll want to apply the clamp as fast as you can after applying the Zap-A Gap.

[jingle_jangle]

I did this same repair on my 73 4001 once. Before I applied any CA I cut a block of wood(pine) with the same radius as the neck and had everything ready. You'll want to apply the clamp as fast as you can after applying the Zap-A Gap.

Well, not exactly. The shaped block (called a caul) is nice but not strictly necessary. The Rags padding the clamp prevent marking of the neck. With a caul on the back and a flat block on the front, though, you can use two 3" C-clamps instead of the Jorgenson.

Zap-A-Gap, in this application, will not set instantly. I'd clamp within 30 seconds, though. It's squeezing the air out of the crack as you bring it together, that cause the super glue to set. It's an anaerobic material--operates best in the absence of oxygen.

[ben_brown]

The block of wood I cut was for the radius of the fretboard..not the neck.
I wanted to make sure I had equal clamping pressure on the fretboard.

[jingle_jangle]

Common procedure, and I'm glad it worked for you, Ben...we all have our methods and this is the place to share 'em!

[rickfan60]

I can confirm that Paul's Zap-a-Gap suggestion works well. He turned me onto the stuff about 2 years ago and I have used it several times since.

[antonius]

Thanks very much for all the helpful responses. I appreciate it very much. I do believe Zap-A-Gap is available in the UK so I will try to get hold of some and look into my clamping options too. I'd be devastated if this bass were to end up badly damaged so it's a great relief to here that the crack problem can be sorted out quite simply. I shall cautiously have a go at bending up the truss rod ends too, but if that proves to be problematical I may just go for slightly lighter guage strings for now rather than risk a disaster or huge expense. I don't know of any luthier/technicians experienced with Rickenbackers near where I live (York, England). If anyone knows of any I'd be glad to hear of it.

[johnallg]

Anthony, if the rod end breaks off, you just cut the ends off (one is shorter than the other, can't remember the length though) and rethread the longer end. Not a disaster.

[jingle_jangle]

There's about 7/8" difference between the two. Cut one short, grind both, thread the longer end.

[rhampshire]

Any good medium-viscosity CA will work. By "good" I mean the stuff you find at hobby shops that the model airplane guys use, not the generic "superglue" you find at the grocery store. I've been using "ZAP" CA for 6 or 8 years to fix separated fretboards - my dad has been building and flying model airplanes for 55 years and likes ZAP the best, so that's what I use.

CA is also a fantastic fix for stripped out screw holes. Actually - CA, an old drumstick, and an x-acto knife.

[antonius]

I just wanted to give an update and say thank you to those who gave me help and advice.

I managed to take the truss rods out and sanded off a little rust. They were perfectly straight apart from the threaded ends but didn't have any tape on them. I'm not sure if they were put in to replace the old damaged ones when I paid to have some work done on the neck in 1990 - or perhaps they are the originals. It seems the person who did the work bent the ends when adjusting the rods because they had never been adjusted since. Anyway, I managed to carefully straighten the threaded ends. I found that the rods had little room for further adjustment because the threads were a little damaged further along due to the ends bending. As I don't have the means to rethread them right now I just put the rods back in with with a couple of washers on each rod between nuts and block to give a little more adjustment. Consequently I can get the neck flatter now and a lower action. I switched to lighter guage strings too and this helped some more.

I also bought some Zap-A-Gap and I reglued the end of the fretboard. It was really tricky to get the glue into the tiny gap quickly enough on both sides of the neck but I think I got enough in without flooding the rod channels. It was a good thing I used lots of masking tape as it got a little messy! After leaving it clamped for 24 hours the bond seems to be secure.

I would never have had the confidence and knowledge to try any of this without the excellent help offered here and I didn't really have the money to spare to get it done professionally. I'm glad I did it myself though because I feel I understand my bass a lot better now. Thanks!

[jingle_jangle]

We're glad it worked out for you, Anthony!

[johnallg]

.... I'm glad I did it myself though because I feel I understand my bass a lot better now. Thanks!

That is the best part of your post. Being able to address issues with one's instrument is, to me, essential to feeling confident in trying situations where help might not be available, yet you need the instrument working. Kudos.