Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
I've narrowed down my issue with my 1968 Ric 4001 bass to the bridge as it's an allparts replacement. Has anyone found that the Allaprts bridge is WAY too high? My action is terrible as I move up the neck. It should have the aluminum bridge that's pre '73, so I'm wondering if that bridge is supposed to be alot lower than a post 1973, and the allparts bridge.
Thanks so much everyone!
Kevin
Thanks so much everyone!
Kevin
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
The dimensions of the old sandcast bridge and the allparts bridge are about the same (as far as height goes)
However the earlier Rickenbacker basses had a thinner neck which resulted in less of a height difference between the end of the neck and the body (less clearence) Mix that with the problems of colapse in the neck joint area (the large pickup route created a weak point) and you frequently get a high action...
Use lighter strings (if you can) to keep the stress of the neck joint.
Slot the saddles on the bridge deeper.
It may need a bit of reconstructive sugery in the neck joint area and in the pickup route to wedge the neck back where it should be. (I did this on my 74 and got a substantual improvement, and a lot less neck whip) It is a slightly drastic move though..
This neck joint colapse is the most common reason for the original bridges going missing, as folks tended to fit other bridges that could be set lower. (very common in the 70s)
emac.
However the earlier Rickenbacker basses had a thinner neck which resulted in less of a height difference between the end of the neck and the body (less clearence) Mix that with the problems of colapse in the neck joint area (the large pickup route created a weak point) and you frequently get a high action...
Use lighter strings (if you can) to keep the stress of the neck joint.
Slot the saddles on the bridge deeper.
It may need a bit of reconstructive sugery in the neck joint area and in the pickup route to wedge the neck back where it should be. (I did this on my 74 and got a substantual improvement, and a lot less neck whip) It is a slightly drastic move though..
This neck joint colapse is the most common reason for the original bridges going missing, as folks tended to fit other bridges that could be set lower. (very common in the 70s)
emac.
- chefothefuture
- Advanced Member
- Posts: 1886
- Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2005 6:00 am
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
You'll want to go with a Rick TP anyway. The Allparts ones
are pretty flimsy.
Take a straight edge and rest it on the finger board and over the body to check for
degree of neck fold. You should have(I say SHOULD) the shallow neck cavity so fold shouldn't
be too bad.
Chances are you can get the action where you want it by just
filing your bridge slots deeper.
You can get a bit lower by filing a little off of the bottom of the bridge(not TP) itself.
Did that on my 69 and what a player!
are pretty flimsy.
Take a straight edge and rest it on the finger board and over the body to check for
degree of neck fold. You should have(I say SHOULD) the shallow neck cavity so fold shouldn't
be too bad.
Chances are you can get the action where you want it by just
filing your bridge slots deeper.
You can get a bit lower by filing a little off of the bottom of the bridge(not TP) itself.
Did that on my 69 and what a player!
I suggest you try the replacement with hipshot bridge
...as you anyway don't have an original bridge. The hipshot is definietly the lower bridge profile as for some early 4003 you have to screw the saddles really high up. But for the 4001 you could leave the saddles pretty down and it will result in a nice playability. For the sound and weight I prefer the alu hipshot bridge.
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
I had to do this on my former '68 4000 when it was new. I don't believe it had a neck pickup route.chefothefuture wrote:
You can get a bit lower by filing a little off of the bottom of the bridge(not TP) itself.
Did that on my 69 and what a player!
"The best things in life aren't things."
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
I had a loaded 4003 tailpiece and a Hipshot bridge next to each other on a table top once. The stock unit (with the bridge dropped all the way down in the tailpiece and a standard notch depth in each saddle) sits lower than a Hipshot. What's more, once you drop the Hipshot saddles all the was down, they tend to rattle and slide back and forth.
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
+1. Had the same experience.aceonbass wrote:What's more, once you drop the Hipshot saddles all the was down, they tend to rattle and slide back and forth.
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
-1. Not here.ilan wrote:+1. Had the same experience.aceonbass wrote:What's more, once you drop the Hipshot saddles all the was down, they tend to rattle and slide back and forth.
- antipodean
- Senior Member
- Posts: 3182
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 1:27 am
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
On the Hipshot, if you back out the height screws too far, so that they no longer protrude underneath the saddles, then the saddles will indeed go wandering. You can, however, achieve the lowest saddle height (bottom of the saddles flush with the base plate) whilst still having one of the screws slotting into the locator groove in the base plate. This should eliminate the slippage that is being experienced.
"I don't want to sound incredulous but I can't believe it" Rex Mossop
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
3 THINGS I WANTED ON THE HS BRIDGE BEFORE IT WAS PUT INTO PRODUCTION WERE:
1. REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE SADDLE, OR THE BASS PLATE BECAUSE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT WAS DEFINITELY AN ISSUE
2. BALANCE THE SCREW SLOTS TO EITHER 2 ON THE OUTSIDES OR, 1 EACH ON THE OUTSIDES AND 2 IN THE CENTER. THE UNBALANCED LOOK REALLY PUCKERS MY SPHINCTER.
3. RECESS OR CARVE OUT THE BACK OF THE BRIDGE SO YOU DONT SEE THE STRING AND ADJUSTMENT SCREW HOLES.
THESE 3 ITEMS WOULD HAVE RENDERED AN AWESOME UPGRADE TO SOLVE THE INFAMOUS
" PROBLEM THAT NEVER EXISTED "
1. REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE SADDLE, OR THE BASS PLATE BECAUSE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT WAS DEFINITELY AN ISSUE
2. BALANCE THE SCREW SLOTS TO EITHER 2 ON THE OUTSIDES OR, 1 EACH ON THE OUTSIDES AND 2 IN THE CENTER. THE UNBALANCED LOOK REALLY PUCKERS MY SPHINCTER.
3. RECESS OR CARVE OUT THE BACK OF THE BRIDGE SO YOU DONT SEE THE STRING AND ADJUSTMENT SCREW HOLES.
THESE 3 ITEMS WOULD HAVE RENDERED AN AWESOME UPGRADE TO SOLVE THE INFAMOUS
" PROBLEM THAT NEVER EXISTED "
- jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
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- Contact:
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
I'm trying hard not to picture Dorothy with a puckered....
Oh, never mind.
Oh, never mind.
- bassduke49
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6580
- Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
Welcome, Dorothy. Please adjust your keyboard so that the caps lock is off. Thanks. All caps is the written equivalent of "shouting," and is just plain hard to read sometimes.
Tell us more about yourself and your Rick(s)!
Tell us more about yourself and your Rick(s)!
-
ryan.jones
- Junior Member
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:52 am
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
Building bridges to a better tomorrow?
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
+1 - Just installed Hipshot. Had the D string rattle, so i searched for a thread like this with answersantipodean wrote:On the Hipshot, if you back out the height screws too far, so that they no longer protrude underneath the saddles, then the saddles will indeed go wandering. You can, however, achieve the lowest saddle height (bottom of the saddles flush with the base plate) whilst still having one of the screws slotting into the locator groove in the base plate. This should eliminate the slippage that is being experienced.
My reasoning for going with the Hipshot was I had too much trouble palm muting with the stock bridge.
Re: Allparts vs. Vintage Ric Bridge
Cassius actually had to inset his Hipshot into the body for this very reason.aceonbass wrote:What's more, once you drop the Hipshot saddles all the was down, they tend to rattle and slide back and forth.
