Lighting, Etc. for pictures

[cjj]

OK, I've taken thousands of pictures in my life, some of then even turned out pretty nice!

But mostly, I've concentrated on outdoors, landscape type things, mountains, trees, buildings, etc., never something like guitars. So, what I want to know is, what do I need to do to take a picture something like this:

How do you get the grain, etc. to show up nicely?

Now, here's the real hard part. How can I do this without going out and buying a bunch of fancy professional lighting equipment? OK, if it's not possible, it's not possible. But there must be a way to get somewhat close.

Obviously the bare bulb in the ceiling fixture ain't gonna cut it. I do have an array or various reflector-type light fixtures (not meant for photography though) that I can set up.

[kiramdear]

I would try to rig up a big softbox of sorts. The key is spotting harsh reflections and too dark areas in the finder and eliminating them one by one. Make some test shots and bracket the exposure if possible. Then go for the gold.

[cjj]

OK, I was thinking a soft box would be an idea. So, how to make one... How about shining the lights through a thin white sheet? The idea is just to diffuse the light, right?

Oh, and I'll be using digital, so I can mess up as many shots as I need to...

[kiramdear]

You can bounce the light or shine it through a piece of material. Be wary of mixing different colors of lighting. In other words stick to fluorescent or incandescent, for example. The color can be corrected later if it is uniform. Use small lights directed at different angles to fill shadows. Try whatever you got, but study your test shots and try to interpret the finder image very well. That is the real skill.

[jps]

Listen to Kira!

Mirrors can be useful for kicking light into small shadow areas. Given what you say you have on hand, still with the same kind of lamps (bulbs) to have a consistent color temperature throughout the subject. Digital cameras are fantastic in this because you can easily readjust the color temperature in the computer to get it to where you think it looks correct. Do not try to eliminate all reflections as that is what gives a subject its three dimensionality, unless you are searching the The Third Element.

[libratune]

I find that the best light for taking photos of flamed maple (or almost any guitar finish) is outdoors in mildly overcast weather, not direct sun.

As for lighting, if you are going strictly indoors, you may need some hi-wattage halogen bulbs (150W+) to shine through the soft box or thin white material. There are some (relatively) inexpensive lighting kits available online. Shoot me a PM if you want some recommendations.

Here's a flamer taken inside with halogen and softbox (and I wasn't trying for the "flame" per se):

4004Cii MG

Here's a flamer taken outside in hazy light (next time I'll take it out of the case to eliminate reflection):

660-12 AFG

[kiramdear]

Ron, you're right, I find that an overcast day is a cheap and easy softbox for object photography. I get very good results with very little effort in this kind of light. A white base will serve to bounce light back up into shadow areas of 3-D objects. The same overcast light is great for recording posters and other flat art too big for the scanner because you avoid troublesome hot spots.

[jps]

One of the best things about hot lights is you see what you get, unlike with flash.

[kiramdear]

I think the trick is in learning to interpret the finder image. Unless you are under a black hood with your camera, what you see is nowhere close to what you'll get. Shades of dark and light that are washed out in the finder may be fine in the print, or vice versa. Get to know your camera's "reality gap" by comparing closely the results with your expectations. Once you are one with your finder you can accurately predict the results.

You don't have to try to emphasize the grain in the wood, for example. It's all there already. All you have to do is take away everything that hides it. The camera is so amazing, it really is like cheating if you understand it. If you do your part well, the camera will do its part 100%. I'm always astonished how easy it is to get beauty out of a camera.

Use natural light when possible. Flash work is guesswork, literally a shot in the dark.

[cjj]

Sounds good. I can relate pretty much everything you say to my work with outdoors scenes, natural light, what you see in the viewfinder, etc. Of course most of that photography was done with my Nikon SLR's where I can select lenses, etc.

I suppose I'd actually do a bit better if I was going to use an SLR & film because I have something of an understanding for how things are going to work, just a totally different subject matter. This digital stuff is a bit more of a mystery to me. Yeah, I know I was giving Jim K. a hard time a while back about having to get film developed, but even though I've got a few digital cameras (a Nikon and a Sony), I can't really say I've figured out how to get much more than "snap shot" pictures with them.

Anyway, I figured this would be a fun way to learn a bit more about them. Getting the lighting off to a good start will let me play with the camera to get what I want. I like the idea of an overcast day, but lately, it's either been raining or (gasp!) snowing when it's overcast. Not the kind of weather I want to take a Rick out for a picture session. I've got a few ideas not for setting up some halogen lamps with bounce, etc.

I have to say, one thing that really amazes me with these digital cameras is how well they work in rather low light situations. I mean stuff that my usual film would require tripods and long exposures, these things can do hand held! I think that could be a great help in just what sort of lighting is really required.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

[jps]

Unless you are under a black hood with your camera...

I often am!

[libratune]

I have to say, one thing that really amazes me with these digital cameras is how well they work in rather low light situations. I mean stuff that my usual film would require tripods and long exposures, these things can do hand held! I think that could be a great help in just what sort of lighting is really required.

Amazing thing # 2 is the editing software! I use a Nikon D70S with the "PictureProject" software that came with it 5 years ago. Even I can figure it out! (almost) i don't want to get the updated version because mine ain't broke and it don't need fixin' . . .