Trouble Setting The Action (Bridge) On My 330

[sdbanotts]

Hi All,

I'm having a nightmare trying to get my action set properly on my 2nd hand 330 I recently bought.

It has developed a nasty buzzing when playing unplugged, and I set about meddling with the action.

I've done my research-How high should the strings be etc, but I'm not sure if it's ok, and wondered if anyone can help.

I set the height to 5/64 on the bass side, and 3/64 on the treble side. I can't find a 64in ruler, so made my own with a bit of card, which does the job. The action now seems ok, but I'm now trying to intonate the guitar properly. The only way I can do this with a couple of the strings (namely the low E and D) is to turn the saddle screw for each, so that the screw has now come out of the hole nearest the bridge pick-up. Is this ok to leave it like this, or should they rest in the hole on the bridge? I mean I have turned these two as far counter-clockwise as is possible.

The screws don't appear to be loose but, the aforementioned two screws now sit really far back towards the R tail piece. This is hard for me to describe, as I'm not a techie guitar man, but do you get the picture?

I also find it hard to tell if there may be a bow in the neck. There doesn't appear to be one, but is there an easy way of sighting this?

Should I just start again and turn the saddle screws all the way clockwise, and move counter-clockwise accordingly to get in tune with the harmonic at the 12th fret?

I may have to get it looked at professionally, but can't really afford that right now, so any advice would be great.
Thanks
Scott

[jdogric12]

To sight the neck: stand up, set the guitar on your foot and look down the sides of the fretboard. It's easiest to see bows at this angle.

Are you adjusting the saddles while the strings sit on them, or with the strings lifted off? Older bridges get a little sticky and adjust easier with the strings lifted off.

[sdbanotts]

Hi Jason,

Thanks for the tip re sighting the neck. I'll try that out.
Re the strings-I loosen them first then adjust the saddles.
As I mentioned, the only way the E and D string will intonate at the 12th is by setiting them as far back as possible, which means the tip of the screw doesn't sit in the hole on the side of the bridge.

Is this ok like this?

Cheers

[jdogric12]

If it doesn't wiggle, it's probably okay, but a picture would help us determine a proper response much more.

[sdbanotts]

no probs Jason, I'll get a pic up asap.

[admin]

Scott: Perhaps another question for you if you don't mind.

Does the bridgeplate on your Model 330 have slots in it so that you can loosen the screws and move the plate (and bridge of course) further back toward the tail of the guitar?

If not, I would invest in a slotted bridgeplate as it may make your life easier.

Peter

[sdbanotts]

001.jpg

Hi Peter,

The bridge sits on a metal plate on the guitar. The 4 bridge screws sit in 4 tiny holes on the plate.

I'll google a slotted bridge and see what that looks like.

Cheers

PS-Heres what my bridge looks like right now.Note the screws set really far back...I'm left handed, so the string at the bottom of the pic is the fat E

[beatlefreak]

Scott -

RIC bridges are built to tight tolerances. This is so the individual saddles don't move, wiggle or vibrate during normal playing. Since the tolerances are tight, setting intonation can be tricky, as loosening the adjustment screws (to move the saddle forward and raise the pitch) can cause the screw to back out. To keep this from happening, move the string to the side. Apply some pressure to the hex key as you loosen the screw. It also may help to push the saddle forward with a finger on your free hand.

I find it best to set intonation starting with all saddles too far forward (so that the fretted notes are sharp in relation to the open strings). Then intonate the strings by lowering the pitch of the fretted notes until they are in tune relative to the open strings. This way, you are tightening the screws, which keeps them flush to the bridge body and properly inserted in the holes. It also makes them less susceptible to rattling during playing.

The slotted bridge discussed above is the bridge plate. The bridge plate mounts to the guitar body with two screws through holes in the plate. Newer RIC bridge plates have slots rather than holes, allowing you to move the entire bridge back and forth a little.

[jdogric12]

It also may help to push the saddle forward with a finger on your free hand.

I do this too, sometimes with a tool*.

*Be careful!!!

[johnallg]

It also may help to push the saddle forward with a finger on your free hand.

I do this too, sometimes with a tool*.

*Be careful!!!

So, Jdog, who's your tool??

[bails]

With all 6 saddles appearing to be towards the back, I would suggest rocking the whole bridge back, just a smidge. This is done by extending the front post screws and shorting the rear post screws ever so slightly. When done correctly, the bridge height does not need to change, just the angle the bridge makes with the body. Before and after shown below...

[doctorwho]

... If not, I would invest in a slotted bridgeplate as it may make your life easier ...

+1

I may need this myself on my 610 Ruby, as I am also having the same problem with it. One thing I have not tired (and it's because of the tightness/tolerances of the parts involved that Kris mentioned) is to file down slightly the bottoms of the saddles on the problematic strings so that I can get them both closer to the edge of the bridge yet keep the screws in the holes. IMO this is a last-ditch solution because if I file too much off, then I'll have rattles like crazy.

I have also successfully used Mark's trick of tilting the bridge.

Scott, depending on what part of what country you are located, there may be a Forumite local to you who would be willing to help you with the set-up.

[admin]

One thing I have not tired

Gary: I have always admired your persistence in all things Rickenbacker.

[sdbanotts]

Thanks again for the input guys.
I have tried most of the suggestions kindly offered here, and I seem to be getting somewhere now.

I have adjusted each saddle screw so they sit as far forward as possible (with the strings loosened of course), and have set the intonation by turning each saddle counter-clockwise where necessary.

Seems to be ok. Once thing I have noticed is that if you move the entire bridge by hand, it moves ever so slightly forward. Could this be that the 4 screws that tighten it are not actually as tight/sitting flush as they should be.

I've tested them by seeing if there is any slack on them, but they seem tight enough.

It's quite a tough job all in all, I don't think I have the patience for it, but having spent a good 2 hours this morning it seems to be a lot better now.

Finally I now need to check the height of the strings using a 64th rule. I can't seem to find one, does anyone know what kind of thing I need to be looking for?

Most of the rulers I have looked at, do have 64th markings but not right at the end of the rule, which renders it useless in measuring string height.

What does everyone else use?

Sorry for all these questions, but I don't want to damage the guitar by my own idiocy!!

Cheers Again

[doctorwho]

One thing I have not tired

Gary: I have always admired your persistence in all things Rickenbacker.

Yes, I am very presistent!