Seeking advice about 330/12's
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Seeking advice about 330/12's
I am interested in purchasing a (fireglo) 330/12, and am wondering if there is a big difference in the new models versus the old models. Is there a year or era of production that I should avoid or seek out? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
Welcome, Jack!
As far as 330/12s go, I'd avoid anything made before 1965.
Additionally, next year's 330/12s won't be out till next year, or perhaps even later...
As far as 330/12s go, I'd avoid anything made before 1965.
Additionally, next year's 330/12s won't be out till next year, or perhaps even later...
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
jingle_jangle wrote:As far as 330/12s go, I'd avoid anything made before 1965.
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three rights do make a left.
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
That's a great question. Most people would assume that all fairly modern Rickenbackers are roughly the same. It's my experience that they are not.
I have played a lot of 330/12s and 360/12s, and it's just my opinion, of course, but if you are looking for a non-vintage piece, the best years to buy are from 1987 or so to 1995. I love the neck profiles from these years, I love the fireglo shading, and I love the finish, especially from '93-'95. They really had it going on. Later on, after 1996, I think that CARB was messing with them again and I notice more orange peel in the finishes, and just not as deep and rich a finish overall. In addition, the early CNC necks ('96-99 or so) were definitely chunkier.
There are some other small things that make me prefer these as well: the creamy translucent pickguards as opposed to the later opaque guards; the wood/tolex cases, as opposed to the plastic SKB; and the lovely, lovely wood that they used for fretboards in a lot of '93-'94 guitars. There have been some positively 3-D areas of figuring in some of those boards in the guitars I have owned.
I should note that I have noticed a definite uptick in the beauty of the finishes the last couple of years; they look great once again.
I have played a lot of 330/12s and 360/12s, and it's just my opinion, of course, but if you are looking for a non-vintage piece, the best years to buy are from 1987 or so to 1995. I love the neck profiles from these years, I love the fireglo shading, and I love the finish, especially from '93-'95. They really had it going on. Later on, after 1996, I think that CARB was messing with them again and I notice more orange peel in the finishes, and just not as deep and rich a finish overall. In addition, the early CNC necks ('96-99 or so) were definitely chunkier.
There are some other small things that make me prefer these as well: the creamy translucent pickguards as opposed to the later opaque guards; the wood/tolex cases, as opposed to the plastic SKB; and the lovely, lovely wood that they used for fretboards in a lot of '93-'94 guitars. There have been some positively 3-D areas of figuring in some of those boards in the guitars I have owned.
I should note that I have noticed a definite uptick in the beauty of the finishes the last couple of years; they look great once again.
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
Later guitars also have through routes making it easier to change strings. I know this dosen't affect playing but just a convient feature.
"The best things in life aren't things."
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
That's because Eric Behring is in charge, and he cares how they look. Not to say that John or Ben don't, but rather that you can be a robotic workmanlike painter or you can be a human with ideas and critical faculties.belloff wrote:
I should note that I have noticed a definite uptick in the beauty of the finishes the last couple of years; they look great once again.
You can train someone to be a painter and he or she will paint competently. But being a nuanced, creative painter takes constant awareness and adjustment. People with this combination of left (organizational) and right (creative) brain skills, plus fine motor coordination, plus technical knowledge, are very rare.
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
Thanks for the input. Do any 2000s Rics come with toasters, or are they all after-market additions?
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
Most 2000 RICs will have High-Gains. The factory did offer a VP (Vintage Pickup) option at the time, and you will also find many who have added the toasters to their RICs.
I am looking right now for a guitar that I recently saw that I thought was sublime. Hang on....ah, here we go!
http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/msg/1774834741.html
$1700 a little pricey? Perhaps. But 1989...ooooooo.
A somewhat newer 330/12 with vintage case at a very very good price. I'd certainly inquire about this one;
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/msg/1843270660.html
Best of luck to you and I hope you get what you are looking for very soon.
I am looking right now for a guitar that I recently saw that I thought was sublime. Hang on....ah, here we go!
http://miami.craigslist.org/pbc/msg/1774834741.html
$1700 a little pricey? Perhaps. But 1989...ooooooo.
A somewhat newer 330/12 with vintage case at a very very good price. I'd certainly inquire about this one;
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/msg/1843270660.html
Best of luck to you and I hope you get what you are looking for very soon.
Re: Seeking advice about 330/12's
Don't forget a 360/12 will be much easier on your right forearm. There happens to be a like new 2010 360/12 FG for sale on this forum... by me!!!! for cheaper than $1700!!! Pm me if interested!!!
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