Hi Paul,
Was just wondering how easy it would be to replace the newer 4003 full-width inlays with full-width crushed pearl, relative to replacing the older poured types? How deep are they set into the neck? I'm toying with the idea of getting a newer 4003 and making a few changes. What's the best method for doing this?
Replacing new 4003 inlays
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Re: Replacing new 4003 inlays
Shaun,henry5 wrote:Hi Paul,
Was just wondering how easy it would be to replace the newer 4003 full-width inlays with full-width crushed pearl, relative to replacing the older poured types? How deep are they set into the neck? I'm toying with the idea of getting a newer 4003 and making a few changes. What's the best method for doing this?
This isn't Paul responding, but I'll throw my thoughts in the ring. The inlays can be replaced, but it's a fairly invasive process, since you have to remove the frets, finish, inlays, binding, etc. Unless you are married to the wood in the existing board, in the ones I've done, I've found that it's less time consuming and less costly to remove and replace the entire board.
Larry
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Re: Replacing new 4003 inlays
That's one opinion, and thanks, Larry!
I prefer to do it the "hard" way, and to me it's much easier to redo inlays than to replace the board. I've done dozens of inlay replacements (have several in the shop right now, in fact), and have the procedure down fairly well.
Larry's correct in his outline of the procedure (sounds like surgery, dunnit?). The old-style poured polyester inlays can be a bear to remove by any other method than to dovetail saw the edges and remove the center material with a miniature router bit. Sometimes, however, they are easy to remove and pop right out with a bit of persuasion.
The new style FWIs are laser-cut from acrylic sheet and glued into place, then crowned at the same time as the rest of the fretboard. They are easier than the polyester ones to remove by far, having a much higher resistance to crumbling or shattering so they come out in one clean piece.
The sheet material itself is .125" thick, and after crowning the fretboard is completed, they are about .115" deep at center and less at the edges, of course. My price to replace these with sparkle ones is the same as my price to replace the old style poured-in-place ones.
So there you have the opinions of two guys who would advise you to do two different things. The choice is yours!
I prefer to do it the "hard" way, and to me it's much easier to redo inlays than to replace the board. I've done dozens of inlay replacements (have several in the shop right now, in fact), and have the procedure down fairly well.
Larry's correct in his outline of the procedure (sounds like surgery, dunnit?). The old-style poured polyester inlays can be a bear to remove by any other method than to dovetail saw the edges and remove the center material with a miniature router bit. Sometimes, however, they are easy to remove and pop right out with a bit of persuasion.
The new style FWIs are laser-cut from acrylic sheet and glued into place, then crowned at the same time as the rest of the fretboard. They are easier than the polyester ones to remove by far, having a much higher resistance to crumbling or shattering so they come out in one clean piece.
The sheet material itself is .125" thick, and after crowning the fretboard is completed, they are about .115" deep at center and less at the edges, of course. My price to replace these with sparkle ones is the same as my price to replace the old style poured-in-place ones.
So there you have the opinions of two guys who would advise you to do two different things. The choice is yours!
Re: Replacing new 4003 inlays
Thanks guys. I had a feeling the new ones may be easier. I'm still toying with the idea at this stage. The bass I was looking at wasn't the right one for me (although the C-Series I tried alongside it might well have been - what a great bass!); however when I find the right one I can see this happening.