2012 Ruby 4003 Intonation/Saddle Issues

[JackTheRipper]

I have a 2012 Ruby 4003 that has some intonation/saddle issues. I noticed that it was out of tune above the 12th fret and decided to check the intonation. The D, A and E strings were off. For the A and E strings, I had to turn the saddles around to get them to intonate properly. For the D string, I had to move the saddle towards the headstock, but couldn't get it far enough forward to properly intonate it. Also as I moved it forward, the saddle would rock on the bridge.

I read somewhere online about creating a shim for the sadlle with a little aluminum foil. I tried that and it worked to keep the saddle from rocking. But I still can't get enough adjustment to properly intonate the D string. What to do in a case like this??

FWIW, I recently (within the last 2 weeks or so) put a new set of Dunlop Super Bright Stainless Steel strings on it (.045, .065, .085, .105). I had to make a slight tweak to the truss rods to add more back bow too. Prior to that I had Circle K strings on it and didn't notice any intonation issues. There may have been an issue, but I didn't notice it.

--jack

[jps]

Try different strings, that looks way out of whack.

[JackTheRipper]

At this point, only the D string can't be intonated. The real question is, what to do in this type of situation? Change strings? Well, ok, maybe, but I'd rather not just throw away $20. I may go back to the Circle K strings I had on it (either the old ones that I kept or a new set), but since there seems to be such little forward/aft travel for the saddle, what is the real fix?

I've read that the saddle can be cut deeper to change the witness point and that may allow the string to intonate better. Can someone explain or debunk that theory?

Thanks,

--jack

[jps]

Are those the Dunlops? Contact them for a replacement, the string could be defective.

[JackTheRipper]

Are those the Dunlops? Contact them for a replacement, the string could be defective.

Yes, I wanted to try the Dunlop Super Brights. That's what I have on now.

--jack

[Kopfjaeger]

Jack,

Same gauge just different manufacturers? How much out are you?? You can reduce the thickness of the saddle post to gain more rearward movement. You'd have to remove material from the saddle post in the direction you need to move it. If you are off by a little, removing material can get you there.

Sepp

[teeder]

Try different strings, that looks way out of whack.

+1!

[daveman]

Agreed, looks like an issue with that D string. I don't see any other reason for only one string to have that issue.

[JackTheRipper]

Jack,

Same gauge just different manufacturers? How much out are you?? You can reduce the thickness of the saddle post to gain more rearward movement. You'd have to remove material from the saddle post in the direction you need to move it. If you are off by a little, removing material can get you there.

Sepp

Different gauge. I was using Circle K (.045, .055, .076, .106) and switched to Dunlop (.045, .065, .085, .105).

My guess is that it's off by about the thickness of the saddle post, so modifying the post won't work. That's an interesting idea that I hadn't thought of though. Maybe it's just a bad string like others have suggested. I'll see if I can get a replacement.

--jack

[vax2002]

Having spent 30 years with Ricks, the best strings are Rotosound swing bass medium gauge.
You can get the action so low the bass sings like a grand piano, low action soon makes up for any volume drop off from heavy gauge strings.
Everything intonate s perfectly with near centre saddle positions.

[JackTheRipper]

Agreed, looks like an issue with that D string. I don't see any other reason for only one string to have that issue.

I talked to Jason at BassStringsOnline.com where I got the string set and he arranged to have the mfg send a replacement D string. Got it last week and it is fine.

--jack

[jps]

I am glad to read you got the problem sorted.