12 String Bridge - Saddle Slot Cutting

[akpasta]

Hi All,

I just installed a 12-saddle bridge on my 1995 Rick 360/12v64. I got the bridge installed just fine, and filed string slots in the bridge saddles with adequate spacing, etc.

For depth, my thinking was to make the saddle slots as shallow as possible, just enough to hold the strings in place. I then used a fretboard radius gauge, 10" radius, to get the strings set perfectly to the 10" radius of the fretboard. I slipped the gauge underneath the strings. My thinking is I wanted the bottom of the strings to match the fretboard radius, not the top of the strings.

However, I think this may have been in error.

I noticed my old bridge the string slots were cut so the top of the string was even the surface of the bridge saddles-- essentially the top of the strings were aligned with the bridge radius.

I think I've read somewhere that this is how Rickenbacker did it at the factory as well.

I'm happy with my action, but I'm noticing the lower strings are fretting sharp more, and I'm having a hard time getting the higher strings like the B and E from ringing out cleanly, they are quite buzzy.

I'm starting to wonder if I've got it wrong. Perhaps I should have done the opposite and aligned the top of the strings with the freboard radius. The result would be, the lower strings would be closer to the fretboard, and the higher strings would be a bit farther away. Theoretically, this would mean when you set the action, the lower strings wouldn't have to travel as far when fretted (wouldn't go sharp as much) and the higher strings would be a tad farther, so less buzz.

I'm curious what others' philosophy is on this?

here's what I bought, straight from Rick - https://boutique.rickenbacker.com/BRIDG ... p_737.html seems to be exactly a 10" radius and matches my gauge exactly.