1990s Rickenbacker 360/12v64 - "heavier" strings?

[akpasta]

Hey all,

I have a late 1990s Rickenbacker 360/12v64. I put together a custom set of the following, using GHS Nickel Rocker rollerwound (semi flat) wound strings, and regular plains:

10/10, 13/13, 20w/8, 26/11, 36/20p, 44/26.

It plays fantastic, and sounds really good, but the 10s and 13s tend to fret sharp. Rickenbackers from this era tend to have larger frets than ones from the 80s or earlier, which I think explains the problem.

So I decided to just increase the 10s and the 13s on the B and E strings to 11/11, 14/14. It cleared the tuning issues right up, but feels a little unbalanced. I'm thinking of maybe going a bit heavier all around, BUT I'm a bit apprehensive about going super heavy on the low strings, it feels pretty insane having 46s or higher on a 12 string guitar.

Thinking I might try this:
11/11, 14/14, 22w/9, 26/12, 36/20p, 44/26

A lot of the strings would be somewhat similar with thickness across the fretboard, I wonder what that might be like? Any recs or ideas on string gauges on Rick 12s? Should I try an incremental approach or just go heavier all around and keep the proportions more "traditional."

I notice Ernie Ball makes a number of 12 string electric sets that are all over the place. I assume they know what they're doing?? Maybe it's really all a matter of taste?

[iiipopes]

Remember that tension varies as the square of the diameter, not linearly. So when you go up a diameter of string, say from 10 to 11, you are inceasing tension geometrically. A typical 10 plain has about 15.6 lbs of tension at pitch, while a plain 11 has about 20.3 lbs of tension at pitch (tension charts usually use the Strat scale 25.5 for the measurements, I have adjusted these numbers for a 24.75 scale of a Rickenbacker). Multiply that by the four strings you want to change, and you are adding at least twenty pounds of tension to the neck, and all on one side, not balanced among all the strings. So I would advise no, do not go up past the 10's and 13's that are on it. I believe you will encounter neck issues if you do.

Where does it fret sharp? If at the first three frets, it may need the nut slots attended to so the strings are not so high which is one cause of sharp fretting. If higher up the neck, then the bridge intonation needs attending to. Or maybe both ends need adjustment.

On my 1981 360-12WB Ckbd, I have gone the other way for ease on my fingers. I use a custom set of 9's for ease of fretting.

[akpasta]

Remember that tension varies as the square of the diameter, not linearly. So when you go up a diameter of string, say from 10 to 11, you are inceasing tension geometrically. A typical 10 plain has about 15.6 lbs of tension at pitch, while a plain 11 has about 20.3 lbs of tension at pitch (tension charts usually use the Strat scale 25.5 for the measurements, I have adjusted these numbers for a 24.75 scale of a Rickenbacker). Multiply that by the four strings you want to change, and you are adding at least twenty pounds of tension to the neck, and all on one side, not balanced among all the strings. So I would advise no, do not go up past the 10's and 13's that are on it. I believe you will encounter neck issues if you do.

Where does it fret sharp? If at the first three frets, it may need the nut slots attended to so the strings are not so high which is one cause of sharp fretting. If higher up the neck, then the bridge intonation needs attending to. Or maybe both ends need adjustment.

On my 1981 360-12WB Ckbd, I have gone the other way for ease on my fingers. I use a custom set of 9's for ease of fretting.

Thanks for the reply. The B and E strings are fretting sharp due to them bending against the frets, not due to the string height at the nut. If I cut the nut slots any deeper they will likely buzz in the open positions. When I swap the 13s and 10s on the B and E strings to 14s and 11s they no longer fret sharp. The action feels a tiny bit higher but I can probably make a slight truss rod adjustment to fit that. Do you think the 11s and 14s alone will cause issues? Isn't that why Ricks have 2 truss rods?

[iiipopes]

Do you think the 11s and 14s alone will cause issues? Isn't that why Ricks have 2 truss rods?

The 11's and 14's will cause issues. No, the dual truss rods are there to equalize the slight differences of tension or to set the action differently from one side or the other. For example, the factory specs are to set both truss rods so the neck is dead straight. But on my 4002 (yes, "2," not "1" or "3") I dig in so hard that I tend to get fret clank on the E string, along with by nature most sets the E string is a little less tension than the G string. So I have my G string side set dead straight and the E string side set with a slight relief to clear the frets.

If the frets are that high, you need to either lighten the touch or get a fret job to reduce the crowns.

[kennyhowes]

1. Get the neck as flat as can be. Trust me. (That's for the strings bending sharp.)

2. If you're going for '60s vibe, and already enjoy the semi-flats, then use these:
https://www.thomastik-infeld.com/en/pro ... /infeld-12

They're expensive, but you won't have to change them for a year or more. Available at domestic USA dealers.

This is a tried and true formula for me. Your mileage may vary, but it may be what you're looking for.