<EDIT> Sorry; I thought I'd posted this in the technical section, and I don't know how to delete this <END EDIT>
My first post here, so hello...
I just got a FG 360-12 (got it today) and want to install straplocks on it, as I do with all of my guitars. However, I got to thinking about the thickness of the body and the length of the Dunlop screws and began to wonder if they will stay in, or screw something up...
What's the word?
Also, I noticed there are no screw heads on the existing strap buttons. Do I just twist those out with a pair of pliers?
Sorry for the silly questions, but I seriously don't know.
Straplocks on 360?
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tony_carey
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Hi Kevin & welcome to the forum.
The Rickenbacker strap locks are bolts, not the normal screws. If you just gently twist the exsisting ones with a pair of pliers, they should unscrew quite easily. You then need the Rickenbacker bolt strap lock type which you can get from Mike Parks.
How old is your fireglo 12, because it should be fitted with schaller type locking bolts anyway.
The Rickenbacker strap locks are bolts, not the normal screws. If you just gently twist the exsisting ones with a pair of pliers, they should unscrew quite easily. You then need the Rickenbacker bolt strap lock type which you can get from Mike Parks.
How old is your fireglo 12, because it should be fitted with schaller type locking bolts anyway.
'Rickenbacker'...what a name! After all these years, it still thrills me.
Chris, I think that the RIC straplocks are cast parts, so there would not be any other parts associated in their manufacture.
Kevin, Rickenbacker straplocks, like the regular strap buttons, have machine screw threads, they are not wood screws. I have a home-made alternative and would be glad to make you a set. E-mail me your mailing address and I'll get them out to you.
Kevin, Rickenbacker straplocks, like the regular strap buttons, have machine screw threads, they are not wood screws. I have a home-made alternative and would be glad to make you a set. E-mail me your mailing address and I'll get them out to you.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
Speaking of straplocks ....
I got a set of replacements for my v63 from Mike Parks, these are the stock straplocks and fitted with no problems.
The other day at rehearsals I was horrified to look down at my v63 and see the straplock bolt about 50% undone. When I was fitting it I tightened it as far as I could withour risk to the finish and it seemed to be secure.
Has anyone else had a similar issue, and any thoughts on anchoring the straplock bolt. I'm a little wary on using glue in the hole.
I'd hate to have a straplock bolt come out during a gig, the mere thought of the damage that would cause leaves me with the heebiejeebies !!!
I got a set of replacements for my v63 from Mike Parks, these are the stock straplocks and fitted with no problems.
The other day at rehearsals I was horrified to look down at my v63 and see the straplock bolt about 50% undone. When I was fitting it I tightened it as far as I could withour risk to the finish and it seemed to be secure.
Has anyone else had a similar issue, and any thoughts on anchoring the straplock bolt. I'm a little wary on using glue in the hole.
I'd hate to have a straplock bolt come out during a gig, the mere thought of the damage that would cause leaves me with the heebiejeebies !!!
"It's Red Jim, but not as we know it...."
I can see chris' point. when I got my dakota it was the first guitar I had actually bought.
It had the stock straplocks on it, but I didnt know what they were. They just appeared to be small strap buttons.after getting fustated with the strap, I got on the board and found teh problem.
so I ordered teh matching locking set from 'the music connection'.
http://www.the-music-connection.com/ricpart.htm
they are in with the bridges and tailpieces.
Jim: hmm, not sure short of a couple dabs of glue.
might be humidity playing a trick on you
the least invasive thing you could try is some teflon tape that plumbers use to seal threadded pipes.
JP
It had the stock straplocks on it, but I didnt know what they were. They just appeared to be small strap buttons.after getting fustated with the strap, I got on the board and found teh problem.
so I ordered teh matching locking set from 'the music connection'.
http://www.the-music-connection.com/ricpart.htm
they are in with the bridges and tailpieces.
Jim: hmm, not sure short of a couple dabs of glue.
might be humidity playing a trick on you
the least invasive thing you could try is some teflon tape that plumbers use to seal threadded pipes.
JP
Jim - try a drop of Loctite Threadlocker....
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153
Guys, no offense but I don't think you're answering Kevin's question directly.
Kevin, if this is a new or newer guitar, the stock buttons are straplock buttons for Schaller straplocks, not Dunlop. They're Rickenbacker's version that comes attached to a machine screw that's larger diameter than a Dunlop wood screw (and the Dunlop screw is larger than the standard Schaller wood screw). Unfortunately you'll still need to buy the part that goes on the strap.
So you won't be able to use the Dunlops unless you're willing to dowel the holes and redrill. I wouldn't recommend that.
If you bought an older guitar, like over 10 years old, then you'll need to order the RIC version Schaller buttons directly from RIC or from Mike Parks (The Music Connection).
I used to live near a Guitar Center that had dozens of extras of the Schaller parts that go on the strap, because they came with American Fenders but GC separated all the case candy. My friendly salesman gave me some free when I bought a new strap from him. If you're near a GC, you might try that.
Kevin, if this is a new or newer guitar, the stock buttons are straplock buttons for Schaller straplocks, not Dunlop. They're Rickenbacker's version that comes attached to a machine screw that's larger diameter than a Dunlop wood screw (and the Dunlop screw is larger than the standard Schaller wood screw). Unfortunately you'll still need to buy the part that goes on the strap.
So you won't be able to use the Dunlops unless you're willing to dowel the holes and redrill. I wouldn't recommend that.
If you bought an older guitar, like over 10 years old, then you'll need to order the RIC version Schaller buttons directly from RIC or from Mike Parks (The Music Connection).
I used to live near a Guitar Center that had dozens of extras of the Schaller parts that go on the strap, because they came with American Fenders but GC separated all the case candy. My friendly salesman gave me some free when I bought a new strap from him. If you're near a GC, you might try that.
Does anybody else have the bolt-loosening issue to deal with? This is currently the only problem I have with my 660/12.
Would simple carpenter's glue work?
I think what hapens is that the strap-part of the locking mechanism develops a friction "bond" with the actual bolt that exceeds the friction between the bolt itself and the body.
Maybe a better solution would be to lube the contacts between the locking mechanism and the bolt??
Did that make any sense to anyone at all?
Would simple carpenter's glue work?
I think what hapens is that the strap-part of the locking mechanism develops a friction "bond" with the actual bolt that exceeds the friction between the bolt itself and the body.
Maybe a better solution would be to lube the contacts between the locking mechanism and the bolt??
Did that make any sense to anyone at all?
"The only worthwhile conquests are those wrested from ignorance"
-Napoleon
-Napoleon
I've had the same problem on three RICs, now.
I used a generous amount of Elmer's glue, and tightened the buttons as much as I dared. Haven't had a problem with any of them since.
You might want to avoid lubrication. It could tend to get all over everything. I've also found that as the contact points wear, they tend to produce some black metallic stuff, which is kinda like ink when you get it on your skin. I have a feeling that any lubrication would tend to make it even messier. Plus, you'd have to contend with greasy strap buttons. Yecch.
I used a generous amount of Elmer's glue, and tightened the buttons as much as I dared. Haven't had a problem with any of them since.
You might want to avoid lubrication. It could tend to get all over everything. I've also found that as the contact points wear, they tend to produce some black metallic stuff, which is kinda like ink when you get it on your skin. I have a feeling that any lubrication would tend to make it even messier. Plus, you'd have to contend with greasy strap buttons. Yecch.
My 1981 460 came with a loose strapbolt on the upper bout. The internal threads (in the hole) seemed to be worn and the reason for the looseness, so I put a smidgeon of something like Plastic Wood on the threads of the bolt, reinserted it (with turning, just like I was screwing it in normally), and then let things set up. The bolt is now tight as new; in fact, I haven't tried removing it for fear of making it too loose again.
There are two kinds of Locktite for securing bolts; for "permanent" and for "temporary" installation. It's the latter one to use for strapbolts, if one chooses to go that route.
Dave said it right, the RIC straplocks are Schaller and therefore require the corresponding Schaller parts that attach to the guitar strap. I went to a local Sam Ash to get mine when I needed some. Sorry I didn't read the original question carefully.
There are two kinds of Locktite for securing bolts; for "permanent" and for "temporary" installation. It's the latter one to use for strapbolts, if one chooses to go that route.
Dave said it right, the RIC straplocks are Schaller and therefore require the corresponding Schaller parts that attach to the guitar strap. I went to a local Sam Ash to get mine when I needed some. Sorry I didn't read the original question carefully.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
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towser