Finger-ease

[ozover50]

Hi all.

I've always used Finger-ease in my Strat and find it very helpful, especially on the back of the neck.

Does anyone forsee any problems if I use it on my new 330. I'm finding the neck a bit 'sticky'.

Could it have any long-term effect on the fretboard (and the body if I inadvertantly get some on it and don't wipe it off)?

If finger-ease is not recommended, any suggestions for alternatives?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

[jingle_jangle]

Well, I know that Rick doesn't recommend anything but a wipe with their provided cloth, and occasional Turtle Wax on the body finish.

I use a cloth diaper (CLEAN DIAPER!) with a bit of fingerboard conditioner, lemon-oil based, to wipe down the strings and back of neck after each playing. Keeps the compression-wound Rick strings from gumming up and makes the neck faster and less sticky.

But, note: I do not soak the cloth! Just a bit of this stuff suffices.

[jingle_jangle]

Sorry, I couldn't resist a couple of pics of my own favorite neck treatment...

Regina thinks Ricks are hot and fast!

[ozover50]

Good one, Paul. Thanks. What conditioner would you suggest?

Howard

[jingle_jangle]

Clairol. She recently changed her hair color to Montezuma Brown, too.

[ozover50]

OK, OK already!! Nice looking 'Rickenback-her'!!

She's going to have to cut her nails if she wants to get serious!

I'll have to get Maria to pose for me!

Does she always play without a strap? Must be hell!!

Cheers

[jingle_jangle]

She's only a poseur, like so many of us

[ozover50]

You didn't take the bait - 'play', 'strap'.

[jingle_jangle]

There are children present...

[jingle_jangle]

...and her fingernails are serious

[larry_mondello]

Finger Ease is silicone .. plain and simple .

I don't use it for a variety of reasons.
1- I don;t want it in my body
2- it permeates the finish and soaks into the wood ... it allows catalized finishes to 'pop' from the wood . In other words .. it increases the factor of poor adhesion .
3- it stays in the wood ...on a fretboard is sits in fretslots . I makes it difficult to refret necks as silicone is a lubricate and that 'liquid ' must be removed before the new frets can be installed .
Acetone works to remove this . However .... acetone eats many finishes , and many neck bindings .

I suggest you try to stop using Finger Ease and any other 'conditioners'.

As an alternative ..try some 4/0 steel wool to create a satin finish on your neck . They will give you a non sticky feel .

[jingle_jangle]

Huh? Then why not just use #150 sandpaper and take the finish completely off?

The beautiful mirror finishes on Ricks (especially the new, non-nitro ones) seem to me to almost be a Rick trademark...to take steel wool to one would be a sacrilege!

The so-called fretboard conditioner that I've been using ("Dr. Stringfellow") and which I've recommended above before Howard and I got goofy, contains lemon oil and a weak solvent blend that will not react with conversion varnish. The solvent (petroleum-based) evaporates immediately, leaving a nice crisp feeling and a bit of aromatic lemon oli in its place. And-it does not smell like lemon once dry, but rather like sandalwood. Just wipe with a bit of this stuff, and then BUFF dry. Don't overdo it. There's no silicone to worry about, either.

Larry, nothing personal, but I cringe when I think of steel-wooling a nice new Rick to make the neck faster when other, non-destructive ways exist to accomplish the same thing. I do own a couple of Fenders which have the matte varnish necks from the factory and my Rick necks treated with Dr. Stringfellow feel different, but just as fast.

[rictified]

Actually JH recommended doing that a few years ago to make the neck faster. He did warn it would obviously dull the finish on it.

[admin]

As in many things in life, there is sometimes a delicate balance between the functional versus the aesthetic.

In practical terms, as an admirer of older well-played guitars essentially all of them have worn necks. While I agree that this wear alters the pristine appearance, I have come to
expect it. Believe it or not, it seems to enhance the look to some extent.

The road well traveled if you will.

[bill_yantz]

Howard, I use Nu-finish car polish. It re-creates that wonderful brand-new shine and makes the neck feel like glass, no sticking. Before you try it, let's see what Paul, says about this stuff. If he endorses it as safe, I recommend getting some. There is no rubbing needed, just apply let dry and wipe off. I usually clean my guitar with Martin polish first and then apply this stuff and the result is very nice. I only do this when I think it needs it. If the neck starts to feel a little sticky, I get the nu-finish out. Also, if you work on an area of the finish to correct a problem like a scratch, etc. and the araa is somewhat dull after, Nu-finish will bring back the shine. I don't know why, I just use it.

Sidebar: Paul I am still waiting for your written assessment on the 381 - its beautiful. One is on my list. Can you imagine how nice one will look in BBR. I think it will be stunning with contrast between the Blue and the white binding and inlay.

Does anyone know if the full inlay material is being changed. I have seen some that have been very dark. I looked at a new 660/12 a few months back and there appeared to be very subtle sparkle in the material that complemented the white binding much better. I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past that crushed pearl was no longer available (I guess for years now). When you look at a picture of a 60s guitar with this material, the inlays are dominant. I am looking forward to when that can be re-created again. I love the look, totally unique, and only Rickenbacker.