Rickresource Rickenbacker Forum

Hi all.

I've always used Finger-ease in my Strat and find it very helpful, especially on the back of the neck.

Does anyone forsee any problems if I use it on my new 330. I'm finding the neck a bit 'sticky'.

Could it have any long-term effect on the fretboard (and the body if I inadvertantly get some on it and don't wipe it off)?

If finger-ease is not recommended, any suggestions for alternatives?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers

Well, I know that Rick doesn't recommend anything but a wipe with their provided cloth, and occasional Turtle Wax on the body finish.

I use a cloth diaper (CLEAN DIAPER!) with a bit of fingerboard conditioner, lemon-oil based, to wipe down the strings and back of neck after each playing. Keeps the compression-wound Rick strings from gumming up and makes the neck faster and less sticky.

But, note: I do not soak the cloth! Just a bit of this stuff suffices.

Sorry, I couldn't resist a couple of pics of my own favorite neck treatment...

Regina thinks Ricks are hot and fast!

Good one, Paul. Thanks. What conditioner would you suggest?

Howard

Clairol. She recently changed her hair color to Montezuma Brown, too.

OK, OK already!! Nice looking 'Rickenback-her'!!

She's going to have to cut her nails if she wants to get serious!

I'll have to get Maria to pose for me!

Does she always play without a strap? Must be hell!!

Cheers

She's only a poseur, like so many of us

You didn't take the bait - 'play', 'strap'.

There are children present...

...and her fingernails are serious

Finger Ease is silicone .. plain and simple .

I don't use it for a variety of reasons.
1- I don;t want it in my body
2- it permeates the finish and soaks into the wood ... it allows catalized finishes to 'pop' from the wood . In other words .. it increases the factor of poor adhesion .
3- it stays in the wood ...on a fretboard is sits in fretslots . I makes it difficult to refret necks as silicone is a lubricate and that 'liquid ' must be removed before the new frets can be installed .
Acetone works to remove this . However .... acetone eats many finishes , and many neck bindings .

I suggest you try to stop using Finger Ease and any other 'conditioners'.

As an alternative ..try some 4/0 steel wool to create a satin finish on your neck . They will give you a non sticky feel .

Huh? Then why not just use #150 sandpaper and take the finish completely off?

The beautiful mirror finishes on Ricks (especially the new, non-nitro ones) seem to me to almost be a Rick trademark...to take steel wool to one would be a sacrilege!

The so-called fretboard conditioner that I've been using ("Dr. Stringfellow") and which I've recommended above before Howard and I got goofy, contains lemon oil and a weak solvent blend that will not react with conversion varnish. The solvent (petroleum-based) evaporates immediately, leaving a nice crisp feeling and a bit of aromatic lemon oli in its place. And-it does not smell like lemon once dry, but rather like sandalwood. Just wipe with a bit of this stuff, and then BUFF dry. Don't overdo it. There's no silicone to worry about, either.

Larry, nothing personal, but I cringe when I think of steel-wooling a nice new Rick to make the neck faster when other, non-destructive ways exist to accomplish the same thing. I do own a couple of Fenders which have the matte varnish necks from the factory and my Rick necks treated with Dr. Stringfellow feel different, but just as fast.

Actually JH recommended doing that a few years ago to make the neck faster. He did warn it would obviously dull the finish on it.

As in many things in life, there is sometimes a delicate balance between the functional versus the aesthetic.

In practical terms, as an admirer of older well-played guitars essentially all of them have worn necks. While I agree that this wear alters the pristine appearance, I have come to
expect it. Believe it or not, it seems to enhance the look to some extent.

The road well traveled if you will.

Howard, I use Nu-finish car polish. It re-creates that wonderful brand-new shine and makes the neck feel like glass, no sticking. Before you try it, let's see what Paul, says about this stuff. If he endorses it as safe, I recommend getting some. There is no rubbing needed, just apply let dry and wipe off. I usually clean my guitar with Martin polish first and then apply this stuff and the result is very nice. I only do this when I think it needs it. If the neck starts to feel a little sticky, I get the nu-finish out. Also, if you work on an area of the finish to correct a problem like a scratch, etc. and the araa is somewhat dull after, Nu-finish will bring back the shine. I don't know why, I just use it.

Sidebar: Paul I am still waiting for your written assessment on the 381 - its beautiful. One is on my list. Can you imagine how nice one will look in BBR. I think it will be stunning with contrast between the Blue and the white binding and inlay.

Does anyone know if the full inlay material is being changed. I have seen some that have been very dark. I looked at a new 660/12 a few months back and there appeared to be very subtle sparkle in the material that complemented the white binding much better. I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past that crushed pearl was no longer available (I guess for years now). When you look at a picture of a 60s guitar with this material, the inlays are dominant. I am looking forward to when that can be re-created again. I love the look, totally unique, and only Rickenbacker.