1960 450 "Teardrop" restoration

[deaconblues]

Great project! I'll be following this one.

[johnallg]

Well, I'm impressed. I too will be watching - I love these photo essays of restorations.

[beatlefreak]

We'll all stay tuned, Collin!

[8mileshigher]

Well, I'm impressed. I too will be watching - I love these photo essays of restorations.

Really cool, Collin !!! I am very impressed with your woodworking and luthier skills demonstrated here. It will be great to watch you restore this baby, step-by-step, to its rightful place.

[8mileshigher]

Collin --- any further progress to report on your 450 restoration project ??

[lyle_from_minneapolis]

Surprisingly, it played and sounded great.

This is what I immediately thought. Heinous? Yes. But it sure looks playable. Good luck with the resurrection!

[collin]

Collin --- any further progress to report on your 450 restoration project ??

Been sidetracked with holidays. I think I'll be back on the trail next week.

[johnallg]

Collin --- any further progress to report on your 450 restoration project ??

Been sidetracked with holidays. I think I'll be back on the trail next week.

Holidays??!! Stay focused on the important things!!!!!

[xcoyle]

Collin, Dunlop has a wire I like. It is Dunlop 6105. It is a narrow .090 vintage width, but with a .055 height. So it gives you at vintage look, but with the playability of a jumbo type wire, which would be nice on a 450. The extra height is also nice, because you don't have to worry about taking to much off during the leveling and crowning process.

I would also like to hear Paul's seam trick for gluing these odd shape pieces of wood together.

[jingle_jangle]

First, you need to have a good, level fit between wings and body. It should be undetectable to the touch. Run your fingers over the joint, and if you can feel it, fill it. Since this is getting painted an opaque color, and has already been messed with once, don't be shy about using a polyester filler. I prefer Evercoat Metal Glaze FE 416. Sets up dense and quick. Bondo's too porous.

This would also be a good time to fill any excess holes in the top and sand 'em nice and smooth. 150 grit open coat, dry, will do the trick.

If you were to paint it at this stage, you'd get witness lines within a day or three, regardless of what paint process you use. It's what you do now that will determine how invisible your repairs will remain.

Here's my "trick" in this situation: I use a single lamination of fiberglass veil cloth (2 oz/sq ft or lighter), with epoxy resin wetting out the surface. This will give you a .015" structural laminate on each side of the body, and prevent the joints and hole fills from "printing through". I prefer woven veil cloth rather than the non-woven stuff; it goes on smoother and thinner. Either type will work, however.

After you've laminated this up, one side at a time (no bubbles!), let it cure and sand lightly with #150, dry again.

Next, apply two wet coats of Evercoat Slick Sand #708 polyester primer/surfacer. This will fill in the cloth grain or texture and give you a basis for paint. If you uncover the cloth while sanding the primer, spray another coat. Your final surface under the paint should be #600, wet-sanded. Use a block to sand.

I've been helping Kira to restore her much-dented and much-drilled 320. We used this method to get the top absolutely flat and smooth prior to painting. Wait'll you see the finished guitar!

[kiramdear]

Yes, indeed! So far so good - the body looks like new under the primer coat. I can't wait to share the surprises planned for the end of the job.

[kiramdear]

Collin, here's the kind of glass cloth you need: It should be as soft and thin as a fine silk handkerchief.

[jps]

Yes, indeed! So far so good - the body looks like new under the primer coat. I can't wait to share the surprises planned for the end of the job.

Will it look like your avatar?

[kiramdear]

Will it look like your avatar?

No, it's going to be completely different than that.

[jps]

Rats, foiled again!