Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Vintage, Modern, V & C Series, Signature & Special Editions

Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4

User avatar
glen_l
Member
Posts: 466
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2000 3:43 pm
Contact:

Re: Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Post by glen_l »

I knew they used a short pole pickup on the neck position of the 360/12c63, but they didn't really use the same 3K5 winding as the 325c58 on it did they? Has anyone actually measured one on a c63?

If the 1997 is a re-issue model it should have either the hotter 13K toasters (if made prior to 1999) or 7K4 scatterwounds. I don't know of any toasters that were made 6K. I guess they could have been 13K's that were unwound by someone who went a bit overboard.

Anyway, before playing around with different pickups I'd simply check the 0.0047uf high pass capacitor in the bridge pickup path. These are notorious for causing the problem you have. You might find that bridging it out solves your problem completely.
skelt101
New member
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:48 pm

Re: Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Post by skelt101 »

glen_l wrote:I knew they used a short pole pickup on the neck position of the 360/12c63, but they didn't really use the same 3K5 winding as the 325c58 on it did they? Has anyone actually measured one on a c63?

If the 1997 is a re-issue model it should have either the hotter 13K toasters (if made prior to 1999) or 7K4 scatterwounds. I don't know of any toasters that were made 6K. I guess they could have been 13K's that were unwound by someone who went a bit overboard.

Anyway, before playing around with different pickups I'd simply check the 0.0047uf high pass capacitor in the bridge pickup path. These are notorious for causing the problem you have. You might find that bridging it out solves your problem completely.
Glen, thank you for the post. I have, in fact, wondered whether or not the pickups in my 1997 reissue were originally "hot" toasters, as they do not have "dimples" in the black bars. However, they do have slotted screws in the corners and the guitar is from 2000. So theoretically it should have come from the factory with "scatterwounds". Also, I have previously removed the pickguards and did not see the "vintage cap". In comparison to the "scatterwounds" in 660/12, the "6k" toasters are brighter and not quite as hi output. So I believe the reading of about 6k ohms to be pretty accurate. It may be about time to fire up the soldiering iron... :)
User avatar
IHeartRics
Member
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:17 am
Contact:

Re: Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Post by IHeartRics »

May I suggest a possible option? Buy a 7.4K toaster and if you don't like it, and have it rewound to 12K. :?:
Expect nothing and you'll never be disappointed (and I mean that in an optimistic way).
http://www.reverbnation.com/thelowlies
http://www.myspace.com/thelowlies
User avatar
glen_l
Member
Posts: 466
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2000 3:43 pm
Contact:

Re: Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Post by glen_l »

If the guitar is a 2000 model and the pickups have round head slotted corner screws they are 7.4K scatterwounds. The round moulding marks were added at the time of the C series, but the winding spec has remained the same. There weren't any 6K pickups made by the factory. So either your pickups have been incorrectly rewound by someone, or your reading is wrong. I'd really just bypass the 0.0047 cap. A 2000 model should have it.
User avatar
ken_j
RRF Consultant
Posts: 4216
Joined: Fri Jul 18, 2003 5:31 am
Contact:

Re: Hi Gain to Toaster Conversion

Post by ken_j »

skelt101 wrote:Hi folks,
I posted this topic on the Rickenbacker forum and didn't get much response, with the exception of iiipopes who urged me to take a different direction. So I decided to give it a try here. Anyway, I have a 1997 Rose Morris Reissue with two low output toasters (in the 6k ohm range). I think the bridge can be a little too quiet and thin sounding, so I'm considering installing a Hi-Gain. I know that I'd like to convert it to a toaster top. My first question is: if I want to convert the adjustable poles to alnico rods, is there enough bobbin to enlarge the holes to .250" and not damage the coil? If I recall correctly, the poles on the bridge position Hi-Gain have a wider spacing than the neck position... That being the case, would a neck position Hi-Gain be a better candidate? Also, where would be a good place to purchase the alnico rods? Thanks for any help guys!
Sorry late to the discussion. I have sucessfully drilled high gain bobbins, both bridge and neck, to 0.250". These days I prefer to drill for flat head screws. As far as the right thing to do on this I leave that for the owner. We alll have our personal tastes.
"The best things in life aren't things."
Post Reply

Return to “Rickenbacker Guitars: by John Simmons”